December 31, 2008

Photo du Jour - Lunch


Our anniversary lunch was spent in an oratory that was constructed in the 7th century.
It is now an ultra modern restaurant that holds one Michelin étoile. (which we didn't know until this morning!)
La Table Saint-Crescent Pin It

December 30, 2008

La Fête du Fromage - Séchon de l'Ardèche

This petit chèvre packs a serious punch!

When I choose this little cheese at my favorite Fromagerie in Narbonne, the woman behind the counter told me, actually it was more of a warning, that it was a very dry and strong cheese. "Oui, oui, d'accord," I replied, thinking, bring it on lady, I'm no cheese virgin.

Well, she was right to give warning.

Séchon de l'Ardèche
may look like an innocent, little, wrinkly goat's cheese, but it surprisingly potent!
In a really, really good way.


The Ardèche is a rural département in southern France that is known for its rugged, natural beauty, stunning scenery, chestnuts, charcuterie and an AOC goat's cheese, Picodon de l'Ardèche.

Séchon de l'Ardèche is like Picodon on steroids.
Again, in a good way.


The slightly moldy, edible, dry rind breaks open to reveal a brittle, crumbling cheese that has an earthy, tangy and rather goaty aroma. The flavor is rustic and extremely rich and peppery.
The texture -wow! - dense and very, very chewy. It completely coats your mouth with its rich, full texture and flavor.

For those who don't appreciate strong cheeses or "goaty" chèvres, avoid Séchon de l'Ardèche. If you're like me however, and adore them, this is one to try!



Some red Côtes-du-Rhône or white Crozes-Hermitage would be good matches with this piquant cheese. Pin It

Photo du Jour - Black Olives


Above the village, in the garrigue, there are countless Lucques olive trees that don't seem to belong to anyone. The olives in this region are picked green and taken to the olive oil co-op for pressing by the end of December.
Can I cure them once they've turned black? Need to do some research! Pin It

December 29, 2008

Season's Eatings

There is a woman in Texas who can read my mind.

When I decided to take part in Season's Eatings, a worldwide foodie gift exchange organized by Katie at Thyme for Cooking, I never dreamed that the gift I would receive would be a box of the very thing that I had been craving for weeks.


While thumbing through some old magazines sometime in early December I re-read the recipe for Lowcountry Breakfast Shrimp served with Creamy Grits in Gourmet magazine's Southern Cooking edition from January 2008. It got my mouth watering and took my frustration at being grits deprived to an all time high.
Grits in the south of France? Forget it.

Unless some amazing person almost halfway across the globe reads your mind.

Tanna, of My Kitchen in Half Cups, is that person.


Her much appreciated gift included not only a box of the coveted Grits, but other impossible-to-find-in-this-rural-corner-of-the-world ingredients: Extra Fancy Vietnamese Cinnamon, Ground Ancho Chile Pepper, Ground Red Chipotle and a spice mix for chicken and fish called Northwoods Seasoning that smells heavenly.
Definitely one of the best presents I received this year!

My Mexican spices are now sorted for another year and the cinnamon will keep us in cookies and Apple Crunch for months to come.
As soon as I get my hands on some decent shrimp I'm making that Breakfast Shrimp dish. Until then, Cheesy Grits will be on the menu sometime this week.

A huge thank you to Tanna for her generosity and to Katie for organizing a great event. Pin It

Photo du Jour - A Diamond in the Rough


Stone barn in the Charente.
I love the pattern of the white stones and that diamond shaped window. Pin It

December 28, 2008

Photo du Jour


Some BIG wedges of cheese. Pin It

December 27, 2008

Photo du Jour - Christmas Still Life


Three necessary components of Christmas. Cheese, Champagne and Trivial Pursuit! Pin It

December 26, 2008

Am I Still In the South of France?


The clear blue skies and sunny weather of last week clouded over this morning and suddenly big, fluffy flakes of this strange white stuff that we seldom seen around these parts started falling from the sky...
SNOW!

Just in time for my 1½ hour drive to Perpignan airport to pick up our friends. The timing could not have been worse.

But this beautiful, white, winter wonderland landscape is amazing!

Pin It

Photo du Jour


Interesting old tiles and I love that roofline! Pin It

December 25, 2008

Photo du Jour - Noël


A frosty, sunny Christmas morning. Joyeux Noël! Pin It

December 24, 2008

Peace and Joy!

The Champagne and Muscat St. Jean de Minervois have been chilled and are ready to be poured.

The scallop chowder ingredients have been gathered, the canette* is stuffed and ready to roast, the brussels sprouts and parsnips have been purchased, the French cheeses have been selected and the traditional Christmas pudding has been steeped in brandy, steamed and is ready to enjoy.

We're looking forward to a festive day with friends tomorrow and are thinking of our family and friends who are celebrating many miles away.

Joyeuse Fêtes to you and your loved ones!




* duckling Pin It

La Fête du Fromage - La Courounne Lochoise

The area surrounding the medieval city of Loches in the southern Loire valley is home to the farmers who make this little ash covered fromage de chèvre, La Couronne Lochiose.

Its name, la Couronne, meaning the crown, springs from its distinctive ring shape, and Lochoise means simply that it comes from the area around Loches.


This has to be one of the best unpasteurized goat cheeses that I've tasted thus far.

It has a mild "goatiness" and is somewhat salty and mildly acidic. There is a welcome whisper of a fresh, green grass flavor and its texture is ultra rich and creamy. It literally melts in your mouth.
Quite simply - fabulous!

Wines from the Loire pair best with La Couronne Lochoise. Try a white Sancerre or a reds such as Anjou or Bourgueil. Pin It

Photo du Jour - Venice?


It looked a bit like Carnival in Venice in Narbonne yesterday. Pin It

December 23, 2008

La Fête du Fromage

Running a bit behind with things today. Actually I've been running a bit behind all week! Tis the season...

Look for a delicious fromage de chèvre from the Loire Valley in la Fête du Fromage tomorrow. Pin It

Photo du Jour


A fanciful door handle. Pin It

December 22, 2008

Dark Chocolate Brownies


Brownies.

I can never make enough of them.

They have become a favorite treat of the local veterinarian, several of our neighbors, the village Mayor and his staff, and some of our friends. Oh, and my husband. Can't forget him!
As I said...Never. Enough.

melting the butter and chocolate

These brownies are simple and oh so scrumptious. Really, what could be better than little squares of rich, buttery, walnut studded, dark chocolate brownies?

Well, I can think of one thing...
Little squares of rich, buttery, walnut studded, dark chocolate brownies topped with a scoop of rich, creamy, real vanilla bean ice cream!


These are dead easy to make.
I prefer them with nuts, either walnuts or pecans, however this recipe is excellent without them. Sometimes I use half regular sugar and half vanilla sugar, and if so, leave out the 1 teaspoon of vanilla. I've also included the metric measurements for those of you who were fortunate enough to have grown up with the metric system.

Thanks to Scarffen Berger Chocolate's website for an excellent recipe that will give you moist, chewy and ultra chocolatey brownies!

Dark Chocolate Brownies
  • 6 ounces (170 grams) Scharffen Berger 70% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate
  • 3/4 cup ( 170 grams) butter
  • 1 1/2 (300 grams) cups sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 1 cup (125 grams) flour
  • 1 cup chopped nuts (optional)
Heat oven to 325°F (160°C).
Melt chocolate and butter in a double boiler over simmering water.
Stir sugar into chocolate until blended. Add eggs and vanilla. Stir in flour and nuts. Spread into a buttered 13" x 9" baking pan.
Bake 30-35 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes up with crumbs (not batter). Cool in pan.

. Pin It

Photo du Jour


The vignerons are in the process of pruning the vines right now, leaving behind beautiful, twisted trunks. Pin It

December 21, 2008

Photo du Jour - December Sunset


Midnight blue skies at 5PM. Pin It

December 20, 2008

Photo du Jour - December Sunrise


The colors shifted this morning from pale pink and lavender to orange and red. Absolutely stunning! Pin It

December 19, 2008

Photo du Jour - A Grand Staircase


17th century, golden stone staircase in the Languedoc-Roussillon Pin It

December 18, 2008

Photo du Jour


Red Wine. The elixir of life. Pin It

December 17, 2008

French Travel Tips For Women




#1 Always carry a little pack of tissue with you.


I can't tell you how many toilets I've encountered in France that have no toilet paper. Or even a seat!
In restaurants. At rest stops. In cafés.
I'm speaking only for France here, not sure about the rest of Europe.

Believe me, keep a little pack with you at all times. You'll thank me later.


One good thing - my thighs are well toned from "hovering."
Gym? Who needs a gym! Pin It

Photo du Jour - Bread Oven


The ancient stone bread oven on the grounds of le Château de Perdiguier. Pin It

December 16, 2008

La Fête du Fromage - Vieux-Boulogne

La factrice* screeched to a halt in front of the house the other day and presented me with a small, white paper wrapped box that she was holding at arm's length. "C'est du fromage, oui?" she asked. I saw Jean-Pierre and Agnès's return address on the box, shrugged and responded, "Je ne sais pas." "My van stinks of cheese and the odor is coming from that box," she replied. I offered my sincere apologies and she wobbled off in her black stiletto boots, mumbling about the offensive smell. I brought the box up to my nose and took a sniff. 
 WOW! It did stink!

 
The box revealed a real treasure; Vieux-Boulogne from the famous Maître Fromager/Affineur, Philippe Olivier, in Boulogne-sur-Mer. What a fantastic gift! Jean-Pierre and Agnès left for Boulogne early last week to visit family before flying off to Thailand for a well deserved vacation. They went to Philippe Olivier to buy some cheese for their daughter who lives in Thailand, and decided to surprise us with some too. These two have been incredibly supportive of our French food education over the last 8 years, introducing us to frog's legs, rabbit, Boulette d'Avesnes and Époisses. I hope they didn't try to take Vieux-Boulogne on the airplane. Their fellow passengers would have suffered!

 
Vieux-Boulogne was voted the smelliest cheese in the world a few years ago. No wonder! I doubt that la factrice's olfactory receptors will easily forget its pungent odor. However, this cheese's bark is much worse that its bite. While it isn't the mildest cheese I've ever tasted, its flavor definitely doesn't match the strength of its aroma.

 
Vieux-Boulogne, also called Sablé du Boulonnais, is produced in the Pas-de-Calais department in northern France. The cheese is described as pré-salé, meaning "salted pasture," as the cows graze in pastureland near the sea outside of Boulogne-sur-Mer. The salt flavor comes through, adding another layer to its substantial, mushroomy, rich flavor. The pale orange rind is continuously washed in beer during its affinage, but neither the smell nor flavor of beer is apparent. This one pairs perfectly with Champagne or a Côteaux-du-Layon. I wish I could buy another piece of this memorable cheese to add to the cheese platter I'm composing for Christmas dinner. Vieux-Boulogne is delicious! 

Merci Jean-Pierre and Agnès! 


 *The mailwoman


Pin It

Photo du Jour - Potimarrons


Le Potimarron - a succulent, dense, chestnut flavored squash that makes delicious soup.

Potimarron Soup
serves 4

2 pounds potimarron (a.k.a. Hokkaido squash), peeled and cut into one inch cubes
4 cups chicken stock
2-3 teaspoons sugar, depending on the sweetness of the potimarron
4 tablespoons crème fraîche or heavy cream
salt
freshly ground white pepper
4 small slices Fourme d'Ambert cheese

In a large stockpot mix together the cubed potimarron, chicken stock and 2 teaspoons sugar.
Bring to a boil over high heat, cover and cook for 20 minutes.
Taste and add more sugar if necessary.
Blend until completely smooth with a hand blender or in a food processor. Use caution with hot soup!
Just before serving, bring back to a boil and whisk in the crème fraîche or cream. Add salt and white pepper to taste.
Ladle into 4 bowls and lay a slice of Fourme d'Ambert on top of each serving.
Enjoy! Pin It

December 15, 2008

December's La Fête du Fromage Round-Up

December is a crazy time of year for most of us. A warm thank you to all of you who found a moment to savor cheese for this month's Fête du Fromage International Cheese Tasting Event.


Shira of Petit Pois made Oeufs en Cocotte for a light supper with leftover slow cooked onions and eggs, then sprinkled with shredded Gruyère. The result was savory little gratin crowned with delicious, golden cheese. What a great looking dish!


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Creamy and rich Grès des Vosges sounds amazing! Chelly from Rolling in Dough happily tasted this Kirsch infused, French cheese from Alsace. A glass of Gewurztraminer and some slices of baguette alongside made a perfect snack.


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Nathalie at Spaced Out Ramblings shared another luscious looking Italian cheese with us for December's Fête. Stracchino is a soft, spreadable cow's-milk cheese from the Lombardy region that is both wonderful to cook with or to simply enjoy spread on some fresh bread.


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Little discs of chèvre wrapped in bacon and pan fried until the bacon is crispy and the cheese has warmed and is starting to ooze a bit? Well, it just doesn't get much better than that.
Camille of Croque Camille recently discovered this French convenience food called Fournée au Chèvre and is, not surprisingly, thoroughly smitten!


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


My entry to La Fête is the smoky and nutty flavored Trappe Echourgnac. This delicious French cheese is matured in walnut liqueur from the Périgord and produced by nuns at the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Bonne Espérance (our Lady of Good Hope) in the Dordogne.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Thanks again for another fantastic Fête!


Please taste and share some cheese with us again in January.

Tell us why you chose this particular cheese. Tell us how it tasted. Tell us about its texture and aroma. Did you eat it on its own? Or with something? Did you drink anything special with your cheese? Would you recommend it or not? Is there something unusual or interesting about it?

The 15th of every month will be the official day for La Fête du Fromage. Please have your entries to me by the end of the 13th.
  • Photos are wonderful, but not necessary
  • Entries must contain the words La Fête du Fromage and contain a link to Chez Loulou
  • Posts should be written specifically for La Fête du Fromage and not entered in any other food blog event
  • Please send the link to your post to louloufrance (at) gmail (dot) com with the words Fête du Fromage in the subject line
Pin It

Photo du Jour - Les Pigeons


Elegant, snow white, fantail pigeons perched on the ledge outside their nesting holes. Pin It

December 14, 2008

Photo du Jour


Old staircase tucked into a corner of a courtyard.

Don't you think this looks like it could have been taken in Mexico or the Caribbean? It has that verdant, overgrown look of the tropics. Pin It

December 13, 2008

Photo du Jour - Chèvre Drizzled with Honey


Locally made, fresh chèvre, drizzled with delicately flavored acacia honey.
This is one of the most sublime mélange of flavors that I have ever tasted.



Don't Forget! Get your entries for December's La Fête du Fromage to me by the end of today. (If you're running a bit late, I'll happily accept them tomorrow, too!) Pin It

December 12, 2008

Cognac Centre Ville

Cognac. I love this place. We've visited this charismatic town three times in the last five years and plan to go again next year.

The fabulous Chinese food and innumerable Cognac tasting opportunities are reason enough to go back, but we also appreciate the sophisticated atmosphere, the fact that it is easy to get around and to park in, and think that Cognac is generally, an all-around, delightful French town.




One of the best things about Cognac - it is people friendly.
Its small size (population around 20,000) means that it is easily navigated on foot. The medieval quarter is a maze of little streets that you can't resist exploring and a stroll along the river offers scenic views and shady spots to have a picnic or relax. In the summertime there are boat rides along the Charente river to consider.


You will be spoiled for choice when it comes to fresh seafood Le Marché Couvert, which is open every morning except for Monday. Other open air markets take place around town every Saturday and Sunday, offering a wealth of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese, charcuterie and seafood. There are also Marchés Bio (organic markets) held the 3rd Sunday of the month and every Tuesday and Friday.

If you're looking for places in France to visit, put the town of Cognac and the surrounding area on your list. The Charente and Charente-Maritime offer vast, gorgeous Atlantic beaches, quaint islands, some of the most succulent oysters you'll ever taste, world renowned Cognac, music and art festivals, Roman and Romanesque architecture and a beautiful landscape of rolling hills dotted with vineyards and picturesque fields of sunflowers.
What more could you ask for?


Cognac Tourism
Charente Tourism
Official site of la Charente-Maritime (in French)
Poitou Charentes Tourism Pin It

Photo du Jour - Scallops and Sardines


Scallops in le Marché Couvert in Cognac were only €7,90 a kilo. Down here in the Languedoc they cost more than twice that.
And check out those enormous silver sardines! (on the right) Pin It

December 11, 2008

This Morning in Béziers

Our visit to the sous-préfecture this morning went very well...

They did want to see us for the 10 year cartes de séjours.
The interview included questions to find out if we've integrated into our community and how well we speak French. It was all surprisingly simple and the man behind the desk was really nice and had a good sense of humor.
Don't know what happened to the cranky women who used to work there.

Another step in the right direction.
What a relief!

Pin It

Photo du Jour


Old, weathered shutters tucked into a corner. Pin It

December 10, 2008

What We Have to Look Forward to Tomorrow Morning

We have been asked to come into the Bureau des Étrangers at the sous-préfecture in Béziers for an interview. The first time ever. Hopefully it has to do with getting the coveted 10 year cartes de séjours, but we really have no idea.

The thing is, they didn't give us an appointment. That means we need to leave the house by 7AM in order to arrive before 8AM to wait in line outside (morning temperatures are predicted to be about 32-34 degrees F) so when the doors open at 8:30AM we'll get one of the precious few appointments that they dole out to the smallest number of people possible to interview before closing for the day at 11AM.

Looking forward to it. You betcha.

I'm not even worried about the interview part. It's the thought of standing outside freezing while we wait to take a number that sounds so awful.
Layers. Must wear many layers. And a hat.


(of course, if they give us our 10 year cartes de séjours, it will all be worth it! Here's hoping.) Pin It

Photo du Jour - Hot Chihuahua


Basking in front of the fire in our gîte near Cognac. He was one hot dog! Pin It

December 9, 2008

La Fête du Fromage - Fromage de Chèvre Fermier

Over the last year and a half I've tasted cheese blanketed with crushed walnuts, cheese covered and matured in grape marc, cheese wrapped in grape leaves, cheese washed with marc de Bourgogne, cheese sprinkled with winter savory and cheese dusted with ash.

Now here's a new one: this little fromage de chèvre is coated in minced seaweed.

My friend in Brittany recently discovered it and was so impressed that she thought it would be a great addition to la Fête du Fromage and sent me a piece. She was right!


It has no name.
The label only gives the name of the producers and the name of the farm, Élevage du Saint-Goal, in Pluvigner, and calls the cheese simply, Fromage de Chèvre fermier au lait cru.


The seaweed lightly infuses the unpasteurized goat's cheese with grass and herb flavors and there is a salty sea taste, which one would expect. There is none of that pronounced "goatiness" that turn some people off, rather a gentle, sweet, milky flavor. The texture is thick and rich, a little chalky and pleasantly chewy.

This cheese is a wonderful find! Maybe she'll send us some more one day. (hint hint)

We enjoyed some light, white wine with this fromage de chèvre. Some hard apple cider would also be good. Pin It

Photo du Jour - Cobblestones


Cobblestones sprinkled with a few drops of rain. Pin It

December 8, 2008

December

Why does December always seem to spiral out of control?

It starts quietly enough. An event jotted down in the calendar here, a doctor's appointment there.
Then another invitation arrives. A lunch is planned. Another appointment is made. Friends are invited around for drinks and nibbles. The sous-préfecture decides that they need to see you in person for the first time in 5½ years, an outing that will take up at least half a day. Another Sunday lunch with friends means another day disappears. You realize that the grey in your hair needs immediate attention so you book an appointment at the salon and Oh My God, only 16 days until Christmas Eve and almost every day has something planned and you haven't even started working on your Christmas cards or decorating and both of your niece's birthdays are coming up so cards and gifts must be purchased and mailed and your wedding anniversary is looming and lunch reservations must be made and you've promised your husband potato latkes for the first night of Hanukkah and there's that Christmas concert to attend and you've promised your friends a ride to and from the airport and you've agreed to dog sit over the holidays and Christmas dinner needs to be planned and shopped for...

Every year, the same thing. It's amazing how it happens. And I don't even have a job or kids to work around.

December. Is. Out. Of. Control.

Does everyone else feel this way? Pin It

Photo du Jour - Strawberry Tart


Why I love France: Reason # 341

The Strawberry Tart Pin It

December 7, 2008

Photo du Jour - Cheese Tasting


Some of the goodies I found in les Halles in Cognac. Pin It

December 6, 2008

Photo du Jour - Old Wine Press


Part of the 19th century wine presses in the cellars of le Château de Perdiguier. Pin It

December 5, 2008

Chicken Do Piaza and an Indian Feast

As I mentioned in October, the eight of us who meet every month or so to cook our way through the cuisines of the world were about to become six. Luckily, the two who were leaving us delayed their departure date until late November, so we managed to squeeze in one more dinner before waving goodbye.

Our World Food Evenings began as a casual intention to get together once a month for an Indian curry night and evolved into cooking all-out, authentic feasts from around the globe: Mexico, Turkey, Cuba, Brazil, Italy, Spain, Morocco, Thailand, Indonesia, South Africa and even an American Barbecue.

We decided to come full circle for our dinner in November and cooked up another Indian themed meal. And cook we did!

onion bhajis, vegetable pakoras, naan bread, prawn curry, chicken do piaza, saag aloo, masoor dal and rice
What a meal!


naan, ready to be baked


dishing it up


close-up of chicken do piaza


a full plate


This rich chicken dish was our contribution to the meal. If you're an onion lover like me, you will love it!

Chicken Do Piazza

6 tablespoons oil
2 pounds onions
1 ½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 big cloves garlic, finely minced
1 inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
4 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 bay leaves, crumbled
2 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves

Finely slice 2 onions and roughly cut up the rest of the onions.
Mix the chili powder, ground coriander, turmeric and salt together, add the chicken and mix well.
Warm 3 tablespoons of oil in a heavy pan over medium heat.
Spread half of the cut up onions on the bottom of the pan, add the chicken pieces and layer the rest of the cut onions on top of the chicken.
Cover with a tight fitting lid and cook until the onions are have been reduced and become mushy, and the chicken is tender, about 20-25 minutes.
Meanwhile, in another pan that will be large enough to hold everything later, heat up the rest of the oil over medium heat.
Add the sliced onions, ginger and garlic and cook, stirring often, for 10-15 minutes, until the onions become a pale golden color.
Mix in the bay leaves and cook for another minute, stirring frequently.
Add the tomatoes and cook until the tomatoes are reduced to a pulp. This will take several minutes.
Add the chicken and onion mixture to the pan and, stirring frequently, cook until everything is well browned and a thick onion sauce has formed.
Just before serving, add the lemon juice, give it a good stir, and sprinkle with chopped cilantro leaves. Pin It