Cognac Centre Ville

Cognac. I love this place. We've visited this charismatic town three times in the last five years and plan to go again next year.

The fabulous Chinese food and innumerable Cognac tasting opportunities are reason enough to go back, but we also appreciate the sophisticated atmosphere, the fact that it is easy to get around and to park in, and think that Cognac is generally, an all-around, delightful French town.




One of the best things about Cognac - it is people friendly.
Its small size (population around 20,000) means that it is easily navigated on foot. The medieval quarter is a maze of little streets that you can't resist exploring and a stroll along the river offers scenic views and shady spots to have a picnic or relax. In the summertime there are boat rides along the Charente river to consider.


You will be spoiled for choice when it comes to fresh seafood Le Marché Couvert, which is open every morning except for Monday. Other open air markets take place around town every Saturday and Sunday, offering a wealth of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese, charcuterie and seafood. There are also Marchés Bio (organic markets) held the 3rd Sunday of the month and every Tuesday and Friday.

If you're looking for places in France to visit, put the town of Cognac and the surrounding area on your list. The Charente and Charente-Maritime offer vast, gorgeous Atlantic beaches, quaint islands, some of the most succulent oysters you'll ever taste, world renowned Cognac, music and art festivals, Roman and Romanesque architecture and a beautiful landscape of rolling hills dotted with vineyards and picturesque fields of sunflowers.
What more could you ask for?


Cognac Tourism
Charente Tourism
Official site of la Charente-Maritime (in French)
Poitou Charentes Tourism Pin It

La Fête du Fromage - Fromage Frais Férmier

Un bon Fromage Frais Fermier moulé à la louche.

Fromage Frais Férmier is a fresh, salted, unripened cheese that comes directly from the farmer. The term moulé à la louche means that the cheese curds have been hand ladled into the molds.

This particular one is produced from whole, unpasteurized cow's milk on a farm in the Charente-Maritime.


I found this cheese in a shop in Cognac. As I lifted it from its tray, wet and dripping, and slipped it into the plastic bag that the shop provided to keep it from leaking all over my other groceries, I caught a whiff of its mild, super fresh, milky aroma and just knew it was going to be good.

Back at our gîte, I sliced half of a baguette and carefully unwrapped the little, pillowy Fromage Frais. We spread it on the bread and took a bite.


My husband and his son, who is visiting for a couple of weeks, were instantly smitten. They oohed and aahed and asked for more. Sadly I wasn't bowled over.
The texture was soft and fluffy and the flavor was salty, rich, fresh and tangy, somewhat similar to cottage cheese. Which I don't like.
Luckily they both love it.


After watching them demolish half of the cheese, all the time raving about its deliciousness, I had another taste and decided that it would be perfect for breakfast, with some fresh fruit or drizzled with honey.
If you come across some locally made Fromage Frais, you should definitely give it a try!


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TV, Radio and a Killer Cocktail

Later today we will be the proud new owners of British television.

When we first moved to France and were offered English telly I was guilty of saying (in a rather scornful, snotty way) that, "I didn't move to France to watch English television."
Oh, how things have changed!

Four years ago, Canal Satellite was pretty decent. They had some great French channels, offered a few channels in English and a good number of the movies were played in VO*, not dubbed. A little more than a year ago they dropped a couple of our favorite channels and almost all the American/British series and movies were shown dubbed into French.

Now, I know we live in France and they speak French and their television should be in French, yadda yadda yadda. I get that.
But why, for the love of god, do they have to dub almost every decent English language film into French??? What is wrong with subtitles????

So, I've completely reversed my opinion about British television. I apologize for being so disapproving of you. I cannot wait to welcome you into my home.

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I'm proud to report that my husband is embarking on a new venture. Starting at the end of September he'll be hosting a one hour a week radio program on Radio Marseillette! He's calling it Xpat Blues and it will offer interviews, upcoming events, weather (there isn't any traffic out here other than the occasional tractor holding things up) and the Blues.
You can listen to Radio Marseillette live, via your computer.

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Last May we bought some amazing Pomegranate Liqueur during our visit to la Charente-Maritime. We've kept it cold in the fridge and occasionally sipped a small glass. We didn't want it to disappear too quickly!
Last night we went all out and made cocktails with what was left in the bottle, mixed with vodka and some freshly squeezed lime juice. YUM! They were sweet and tart and fabulous and strong! We rarely drink anything but wine so it felt very decadent.

Did I mention how strong they were?




*version originale or original language Pin It

La Charente-Maritime

The Charente-Maritime did not disappoint.
An alluring landscape of long, sandy beaches, salt marshes, rolling hills, vineyards and forests punctuated with stunning, Romanesque architecture and quaint villages made for a delightful three day visit.

The little chambres d'hôtes that I found last minute on the Internet was a mere five minutes from the most charming little seaside town, Saint-Palais-sur-Mer. We spent both evenings here, soaking up the sun, breathing in the salt air and enjoying a glass of Pineau de Charentes while watching the residents stroll by with their dogs.



Beach Burger, on the main street, made us laugh and we almost tried it one night, but ended up at a little restaurant with a view of the sea, eating delicious little steamed mussels instead. (I think that was a wise decision.)




Cognac was just an hour away so we drove over to visit our favorite producer, Roullet-Fransac. They were as warm and welcoming as the last time we visited and invited the dogs in to join us. They have a very comfortable tasting room with big couches and wing back chairs. After several tastes of cognac and Pineau, it is a difficult place to leave!


They also make several liqueurs using cognac, the Pomegranate was my favorite. Served chilled, it tastes a bit like a cosmopolitan.


We meandered around, visiting Saintes, Pons, Jonzac, Royan, Marennes and driving up the Gironde estuary to Saint-Georges-de-Didonne. We put a lot of miles on our little car and the dogs were incredibly well behaved. They were welcomed into every café and restaurant we stopped at and offered nice, big bowls of water.

The Charente-Maritime is an enchanting region with natural beauty, impressive sights, wonderful food and drink and delightful, friendly people. We're definitely going back. Pin It