April 30, 2008

Photo du Jour - Poppies


Yesterday. Such a gorgeous day.
I drove around a bend in the road and there was this field of poppies with the Montagne Noire in the background. Pin It

April 29, 2008

La Fête du Fromage - Pouligny Saint-Pierre

My husband has officially found his favorite cheese. Luscious, dreamy Pouligny Saint-Pierre. It wasn't my absolute favorite, but it is a very special cheese!
The entire pyramid was devoured over a couple of days, with the flavor seeming to improve every time we sliced off a little piece.



The Berry region of central France, most specifically the Brenne Valley in the southern Indre, is home to herds of Alpine, Saanen and Poitevine goats, whose unpasteurized milk is used to make Pouligny Saint-Pierre.
This chèvre has two claims to fame; it is produced in France's smallest cheese AOC area and it was the first chèvre to be granted AOC status.

It is a fine textured, elegant cheese that has been granted the nickname "la pyramide" or "la Tour Eiffel" due to its truncated, pyramid shape; a shape that allows the cheese to breathe and ripen to its distinctive flavor due to the ratio of weight to surface area.

The wrinkled rind covers a thin, creamy and oozing layer which wraps around a dense, refined and chalky middle. It was earthy, with mildly salty flavors and heavenly, sweet hints of hazelnut. The pleasant aroma was soft, mild and smelled slightly of straw.
All around a delicious cheese that I would happily enjoy again and again.

White wines such as Sancerre Blanc, Chenin Blanc or Pouilly Fumé pair best with Pouligny Saint-Pierre, but a glass of red Sancerre would be good too. Pin It

Photo du Jour - Fashion Victim


Quel Horreur!

(I especially like the combo of the frilly, ruffly, girly bag mixed with the macho camouflage trousers) Pin It

April 28, 2008

Photo du Jour


Fava beans - les fèves - at the market in Carcassonne this weekend.
I adore them but they make you work for it. All that shelling, blanching and peeling before eating...a labor of love, I guess. Pin It

April 27, 2008

Still Eating As Much Asparagus As Possible...

Every week the outdoor food markets have several small asparagus growers who have set up their worn and battered trestle tables which are overflowing with green asparagus, ranging in size from delicate, pencil thin to sturdy, felt-tip marker fat.

Of course, I can't resist.
At least a kilo makes it into my shopping basket every week.


My latest asparagus recipe search led me to an interesting looking pasta recipe that incorporated sautéed hazelnuts - of which I have tons of in the freezer. (last time I found them for a decent price I bought a giant bag)
I adapted it to my tastes and the result was a rich, creamy and fresh tasting dish.


hazelnuts toasting in butter


a beautiful melange of fresh asparagus, onion, garlic and petit pois


Asparagus and Hazelnut Pasta

1 pound pasta - I used penne
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound fresh asparagus, cut into 2 inch pieces
1 cup frozen petit pois - I love them so I used a lot, you could use just ½ cup
½ cup dry, white wine
4 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, minced
¼ cup Pecorino-Romano cheese, freshly grated
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup hazelnuts, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
Add the onion and asparagus and sauté over medium heat for about 3 minutes, stirring often.
Add the garlic and continue to sauté for another 2 minutes, until the onion just lightly browned.
Meanwhile, in another pan, preferably nonstick, melt the butter over medium heat.
Add the hazelnuts to the melted butter and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add the peas to the onion and asparagus, and sauté for another 2-3 minutes.
Add the wine to the onion and asparagus mixture and bring to a boil.
Cook the wine for 2 minutes.
Bring a large pot of water to the boil and cook pasta according to package directions, until just al dente. Drain the cooked pasta and place in a large serving bowl.
Add the cooked onion and asparagus mixture and toss everything together.
Add the parsley, cheese, and hazelnuts.
Season with salt and black pepper, and mix well.
Serve immediately.


the finished dish Pin It

Photos du Jour - Marché aux Fleurs






One of the best reasons to go to Béziers on a Friday - the Marché aux Fleurs along les Allées Paul Riquet. Pin It

April 26, 2008

Photo du Jour



I've walked by this at least two dozen times and I never really noticed it before yesterday. It is just around the corner from les Halles in Béziers, on a little side street that winds its way toward the Cathedral.

La Beurrerie Moderne - Is that like une Laiterie or une Fromagerie? Is this where someone used to make and sell butter? Pin It

April 25, 2008

Photo du Jour


Some of the color combinations in Marseille reminded me of the colors in Tuscany. Pin It

April 24, 2008

La Garrigue - A Beautiful Morning

La Garrigue is a scrubland found on limestone soils around the Mediterranean basin, generally near the sea, typically consisting of evergreen shrubs such as lavender, rosemary, wild thyme, sage and myrtle, and trees such as juniper and stunted holm oaks.



This morning I grabbed by camera and took a walk up into the aromatic and gorgeous garrigue.






varieties of pine

wild thyme in bloom


a variety of orchid


purple seems to be a popular color


stone walls are built


and stone walls fall




a view of the village from up in la garrigue


If you understand French, check out this site, La Garrigue Gourmande.
In English - History of the Garrigue. Pin It

Photo du Jour


Today is the perfect day for a bike ride along the Canal du Midi. Pin It

April 23, 2008

Photo du Jour - Muscat Vine


A Muscat grape vine growing on our friend's house. Pin It

April 22, 2008

One Year of La Fête du Fromage

La Fête du Fromage is officially one year old! I started tasting France's 300+ cheeses last April 18 and so far have worked my way through 81 of them. That's a lot of cheese!

A friend asked me what our monthly cheese budget is and I guessed around €20. They were aghast! However, €5 a week for cheese really isn't that much, especially for the varieties that have to be purchased whole, such as Époisses, Langres, Vacherin du Haut Doubs, Chabichou, Banon... OK this list is getting too long...suffice to say, there are many, many cheeses that you have to purchase whole.

On to cheese number 82:
A wonderful, local chèvre that I picked up at the Olonzac market last week.

Chèvre de Roquecave



Chèvre de Roquecave is an organically produced, unpasteurized goat's cheese from a small farm, la Ferme de Roquecave, near Ferrals les Montagnes in the Montagne Noire.
The couple who own the farm occasionally come down to the local market and when they do I rush to get into line to buy one of their soft and sweet, fresh goat cheeses. We love it drizzled with honey as dessert.

While I was waiting I spotted this little disk, about the size of a Camembert, and asked a few questions. I was told that the goats graze on rich, green mountain grasses under chestnut trees (a very romantic vision, don't you think?) and that this particular chèvre is made in the style of Reblochon.

We shared it with a friend, and we all agreed that it was splendid!
Its aroma was very earthy and its taste was enticing; full of mushroom and sweet honey flavors. I didn't find it "goaty" at all. It was soft and really delicious.
The Minervois red we were drinking paired quite nicely.

One year of cheese. I've been inspired by how much I've learned and how much I've fallen in love with these special French delicacies.

Now on to Year Two of la Fête du Fromage!


Pin It

Photo du Jour


Publicité everywhere! Even the café tables aren't safe. Pin It

April 21, 2008

Photo du Jour - les Figues


The first crop of figs is growing fast. I think they'll be ripe in about 6-8 weeks.

Then I'll be making fig tart, fig crumble and baked figs with chèvre and honey. Mmm....can't wait! Pin It

April 20, 2008

Photo du Jour - Café


Just around the corner. Pin It

April 19, 2008

A Week In The Life

Wow. Saturday already. Another week gone.
What have I been up to?

I met a cool and very brave woman and saw the house she purchased in a neighboring village. Needs a lot of work but is a great place!

I firmed up plans to meet another blogger in Albi and hopefully visit a cheese shop there.

I ate my way through about a kilo of asparagus.

We enjoyed an evening out at our local café/bar where I had a great chat with the local honey maker.

I checked the garden to find that yes, the arugula and lettuce seeds have indeed sprouted!

I decided that it was time to master the art of soufflé. Maybe this one with Roquefort?

Taking care of our neighbor's dog, so getting two long walks every day up the hill in the garrigue.

I found and purchased an affordable ice cream maker. (I've been wanting to replace the one we left behind in the States since we moved here 5 years ago...it's about time!)

Errands, always errands; groceries, dog to the vet, pharmacy, bank, etc. Pin It

Photos du Jour - le Soleil


The sun is back! For how long, who knows.
I know we need rain, quite badly in fact, but these dark, rainy days make it feel like winter will never end.


Pin It

April 18, 2008

Photo du Jour


A corner of the courtyard at Sur les Remparts, a local B & B. Pin It

April 17, 2008

Photos du Jour - Our Street

Walk out our front door....


...look right...



...look left.

Pretty good views, if you ask me. Pin It

April 16, 2008

Photo du Jour


An early coquelicot. By May 1 there will be entire fields in bloom. Pin It

April 15, 2008

La Fête du Fromage - If You Can't Stand The Smell....

...you better stay away from our kitchen!

My trip to Marseille last week yielded a Corsican cheese to die for.
In a small fromagerie, le Normandy, I bought a piece of this pasteurized sheep's milk cheese called U Bel Fiuritu. When the fromager handed me the cheese I put my nose near the the little waxed paper package to take in its aroma, but the shop was so odoriferous, I didn't pick up anything unusual.
It wasn't until later, on the train home, that I noticed an aroma wafting up from my bag...this was one smelly cheese!



It had a washed rind that was quite sticky, yet edible, a soft texture and flavors that ranged from creamy to spicy. We both loved it's heady flavor that prickled on our tongues as it developed.
A glass of Minervois red paired nicely with this cheese.

I highly recommend U Bel Fiuritu and since it is a pasteurized cheese, it is hopefully readily available outside of France. Pin It

Photo du Jour - Cookies in Marseille


On the left are Cancatelli and on the right are Croquant Amandes, which I love. Pin It

April 14, 2008

Banana and Pear Crunch - A Dessert Experiment

I absolutely love it when my kitchen experiments are a success! (which is not always the case)

Our friends came for dinner Saturday night and I really, really didn't want to go to the grocery store for dessert ingredients. After much thought and searching through cupboards, I resigned myself making something with ingredients that I already had in the house. Besides, who doesn't like a challenge? Time was not on my side by the time I reached this decision, so an elaborate chocolate layer cake or a mousse that needed hours to set were not options.

Apple Crunch is one of those desserts that I make again and again every autumn, usually per my husband's request. The topping is a no-brainer so I figured, why not try making a Crunch with another variety of fruit? (oh, I do like to live dangerously...)

Here's what I came up with.

Banana and Pear Crunch with Rum Laced Whipped Cream
serves 4-6

Fruit filling
3 bananas
2 ripe pears
3 teaspoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg

Crunch topping
½ cup all purpose flour
¼ cup sugar
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans (optional)

Whipped cream
1 ½ cups heavy whipping cream
¼ cup sugar
2 teaspoons white rum

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Peel, core and cut pears into 1-inch pieces and put into a bowl.
Slice bananas into same bowl and add lemon juice, brown sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg.
Mix well.
Spoon fruit mixture in buttered, square baking dish.

Crunch topping:
Put the flour, sugar, butter and vanilla in a bowl and work the mixture with your fingers to combine.
Crumble over the top of the fruit.
Sprinkle the optional nuts over the topping.

Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown and bubbling.

Whipped Cream:
In cold bowl add ingredients and whip until thickened.
Cover and chill until ready to serve.

Serve the Crunch in a bowl with a dollop whipped cream.


It turned out to be a fabulous dessert!
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Photo du Jour - La Vie en Lavande


Our friend's house that is absolutely swimming in a sea of lavender right now. Pin It

April 13, 2008

Photo du Jour


In the last ten days the leaves have burst forth on the vines.
Wonder if it will be a good year? Pin It

April 12, 2008

Photo du Jour


The most beautiful asparagus at a market in Marseille. Pin It

April 11, 2008

Photo du Jour - Mouthwatering


"I'll take one of each, please." Pin It

April 10, 2008

Marseille - One More Step on the Path to French Citizenship


The alarm sounded far to early Tuesday morning.

An 8:15 AM train out of Narbonne means leaving our house at 7:30 at the latest. The train going over was a TGV so stops were minimal: Sete, Montpellier, Nimes, Arles, Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, Marseille. (I never realized that Avignon was only 2 hours from Narbonne by train. I love Avignon!)
Armed with a map, a good book, my camera, paperwork for the Consulate and a list of cheese shops pinpointed on the map, I was ready for a full day.

The transition from the train station to the Metro went without a hitch. I found my stop and came above ground to get my bearings. By now it was 11 AM. Three hours until my appointment.

Off to find the first cheese shop, le Normandy.

I walked and walked. And walked.
None of the cross streets names were appearing on my map, a fact that didn't worry me too much since I'd printed it from viaMichelin.com and wasn't sure how detailed it was. Finally I came upon a large boulevard and another Metro stop. Turns out I was walking in the wrong direction! For 40 minutes.
That is so like me...one of these days I'll learn to just ignore my instincts and go the exact opposite direction that I think I should.
Retracing my steps and walking 15 minutes in the right direction, I found le Normandy. (and yes, all of the streets were on the map)


The aroma upon entering was pure, in-your-face cheese heaven! They had a nice, varied selection and some gorgeous looking Camembert from Normany. One of the only cheeses available that I haven't already tried was a brebis from Corsica, so I bought a piece for la Fête du Fromage.

After a decent lunch in a busy little brasserie, I checked in with the guards at the Consulate, passed through the metal detectors and went to get my signed document from the Consul General.
The process required $30 and took about 35 minutes in total. The paper I received, the equivalent of an extrait de casier judiciaire étranger, required my swearing to the fact that I've never been convicted of a crime nor filed for bankruptcy. Piece of cake.

Now it was 2:35. My train wasn't departing until 4:45. The other cheese shop on my list, l'Art de la Fromagerie, didn't look too far away, so I made sure I was going the right direction and set off. Several long hilly blocks later I found the shop. Fermé.
Merde
.
Oh well. There was still plenty of window shopping at Zara and H &M to keep me busy until my train. (my feet weren't that sore and swollen, really)



I finally got home about 8:30 PM. My husband and I had a celebratory glass of local red, had a bite to eat and I collapsed in bed.

So....
This morning I triumphantly took my entire, completed Demande d'Acquisition de la Nationalité Française dossier to the Mairie and turned it in.

Now I wait.
For possibly up to 18 months. Pin It

Photo du Jour


New growth on the fig trees and a little fig-lette. Pin It

April 9, 2008

Photo du Jour - A Moment in Marseille


The sad thing was, all the shops had gone out of business... Pin It

April 7, 2008

Cheese Shops - La Fête du Fromage

My long day to and from Marseille tomorrow means there will be no Fête du Fromage until later this week.

In the meantime I've compiled a short list of cheese shops with a little help from friends and family.



My husband's son and our computer expert, Zach, recommended his two favorites, Murray's Cheese in New York's Greenwich Village and DiBruno Brothers in Philadelphia.
I had completely forgotten until today, but I've been to Murray's Cheese in New York. A great shop!

Murray's Cheese
254 Bleecker Street
(between 6th & 7th Ave.)
New York, NY 10014
888.MY.CHEEZ or (212) 243.3289
(they also have a location in Grand Central Terminal)

DiBruno Brothers
1730 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19103
215-665-9220
and
930 S. 9th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19147
215-922-2876


My friend and fellow gourmande, Donna, offered two of her favorite places, the St. James Cheese Company in New Orleans and Stinky Bklyn in Brooklyn.

St. James Cheese Company
5004 Prytania Street
New Orleans, LA 70115
504-899-4737

Stinky Bkyln
261 Smith St (between Douglass and Degraw Streets)
Cobble Hill
Brooklyn, NY 11231
718-522-7425


Betty of Cuisine Quotidienne sent me the address of favorite Fromagerie in Rodez which is also a small restaurant.

Chez Marie
Place d'Estaing
12000 RODEZ
+33 565 68 53 20


Kate (who I've known since 3rd grade!) wrote me from her current home on gorgeous Whidbey Island, Washington. Her search for
prosciutto led her to Bayleaf, a duo of shops on the island that sell artisan cheese, wine and imported food. She's always had a great sense of humor and her blog, Coupeville Chronicles, is Kate through and through!

Bayleaf
101 NW Coveland
Coupeville, WA 98239
(360) 678-6603
and
720 SE SE Pioneer Way Suite 1-b,
Oak Harbor, WA 98277
(360) 675-6600



An English friend here in France, Michelle, waxed lyrical about the British Isles cheeses available at Neal's Yard Dairy in London.

Neal's Yard Dairy
17 Shorts Gardens, Covent Garden,
London WC2H 9UP
+44 (0)20 7240 5700
and
6 Park Street, Borough Market,
London SE1 9AB
+44 (0)20 7367 0799


A French woman living in Rome, Spacedlaw, recommended two of her favorite shops, Xavier in Toulouse, France and Antico Forno Roscioli in Rome.

Fromagerie Xavier
6 place Victor Hugo
31000 Toulouse
+33 534 45 59 42

Antico Forna Roscioli
Via dei Giubbonari, 21
00186 Rome
Tel: 06 6875287


A guy named John, who left no link to a website nor an email address, recommended Hamish Johnston Fine Cheeses in London.

Hamish Johnston
48 Northcote Road
London SW11 1PA
020 7738 0741


Finally, I wrote about The Cheese Shop in Carmel, California which I visited with my family in February.

The Cheese Shop
Carmel Plaza (lower level)
Ocean and Junipero
Carmel, California 93921
1.800.828.9463


What names do you have to add to the list? Pin It

Photo du Jour - Pink Mimosa?

I think this is a Mimosa tree.
Can anyone tell me if I'm right?


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