October 31, 2009

Photo du Jour - Happy Halloween!


Halloween squash! Pin It

October 30, 2009

French Apple Cake

Because I've always been a Francophile and this dessert recipe had the word "French" in it, choosing it from a long list of Apple Cake recipes was a no-brainer. The fact that the cake batter is infused with a healthy splash of Calvados (or Cognac) helped make the decision that much easier!

This is one of those special recipes that I stumbled across about 10 years ago and have held on to ever since. It is buttery and rich and truly divine. And it is a dangerous cake to have around, because once you have a bite, you'll want another.
And another. And another.

So unless I feel like living dangerously, I only make it for special occasions, when I know there will be friends and family around to help eat up every last bite. When I offer second helpings I am often met with mild protests, but they always cave in eventually!


French Apple Cake
from Bon Appétit magazine
serves 8
  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
  • 1 3/4 cups sugar
  • 1/3 cup water
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 2 large Granny Smith apples (about 1 1/4 pounds), peeled, cored, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 tablespoons Calvados, applejack or other brandy (I use Cognac)
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 9-inch-diameter cake pan with 2-inch-high sides. Coat pan with sugar; tap out excess. Melt 1/4 cup butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in 3/4 cup sugar, water and cinnamon and bring to boil. Add apples and cook until apples are just tender, turning frequently, about 15 minutes. Remove apples, using slotted spoon, and arrange decoratively in bottom of pan. Continue boiling liquid in skillet until thick and syrupy, about 4 minutes. Pour over apples.

Sift flour, baking powder and salt into small bowl. Whisk remaining 1 cup sugar, egg yolks, eggs, Calvados and vanilla in large bowl to blend. Gently stir in dry ingredients. Fold in 1/2 cup melted butter. Pour batter over apples in pan. Bake until toothpick inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool cake in pan 5 minutes. Run small sharp knife around side of pan to loosen cake. Turn cake out onto platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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October 28, 2009

La Fête du Fromage - Tome Basque

When I purchased this wedge of Tome Basque from my favorite cheese guy at the Olonzac market, I expected a pleasant, rustic tasting mountain cheese. What I didn't expect was to be completely blown away by a cheese with such a refined, sophisticated character.

I just love surprises, don't you?


During our tasting, the flavor of Tome Basque reminded us both of some other cheese, though we couldn't quite put our finger on it. After a bit more nibbling, another sip of wine, a bit more bread and another taste of the cheese, we agreed that the flavor resembled an English (shhhh...don't tell the locals) farmhouse Cheddar, but with a slightly different texture.

The full, well developed flavors are bracingly sharp and tangy with buttery overtones. We also noticed delicious toasted hazelnuts and a bit of salt. The texture is firm and delightfully melt-in-your-mouth smooth, with a very rich mouthfeel.

Tome Basque, as the name implies, is produced the pays Basque in southwestern France. Some well known French ewe's milk cheeses come from this region; Ossau-Iraty, Bleu de Basques and Etorki immediately come to mind. Cow's milk cheeses seem to be less popular, but after tasting this little gem I have to wonder why?

This cheese is perfect when served with some crusty bread and a glass of local Minervois red. I could happily tuck into a piece of Tome Basque every day.

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October 27, 2009

Photo du Jour - Colors of Marseille


Faded sign in le Panier.

This quirky quartier, one of the oldest in Marseille, is a maze of narrow streets and steep staircases lined with colorful old houses, art and craft galleries, cafés and restaurants.

Le Panier's current claim to fame - it's the backdrop for the popular night time French soap opera, Plus Belle la Vie (often called PBLV). Pin It

October 25, 2009

Gnocchi with Caramelized Brussels Sprouts and Pecans

Well, it's official. Autumn is definitely my favorite season.
Twenty years ago I would have said summer and ten years ago I most likely would have voted for spring. (never been smitten with winter)

Now, it is autumn. No doubt.

The temperature is usually perfect - not too hot and not too cool - and the light turns this gorgeous golden color that I find absolutely stunning. When the sun shines through the leaves on the plane trees they shimmer in beautiful shades of pale green and amber, and the colors in the vineyards range from honey to deep orange to bright crimson. It is seriously gorgeous.
My camera gets an intense workout in October and early November!


Another reason to celebrate autumn; Brussels sprouts are back! And we love them.

This is a hearty dish that offers a scrumptious mix of flavors. The gnocchi and bacon are rich, the sprouts are golden and caramelized (I can't resist anything once it has been caramelized!) and the pecans add a nice crunch to the dish.


Gnocchi with Caramelized Brussels Sprouts and Pecans

serves 4 hearty appetites
  • 2 ounces thick cut, smoked bacon
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 garlic gloves, smashed a bit but left whole
  • 2 pounds Brussels sprouts, outer leaves trimmed and larger sprouts cut in half
  • 1/4 to 1/2 cup water
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 1 pound gnocchi
  • 1/4 cup reserved pasta water
  • 1/2 cup toasted pecans, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme
  1. In a skillet large enough to hold the Brussels sprouts in one layer, heat the olive oil to medium and saute the bacon with the garlic cloves until the garlic is lightly browned and the bacon is crisp, about 4 minutes. Remove the bacon from the skillet and set aside and discard the garlic cloves.
  2. Raise the heat to medium high and add the sprouts to the pan, stirring to coat evenly with the olive oil. Leave the sprouts to cook undisturbed in a single layer for about five minutes, until they develop a deep brown, caramelized color. Stir to allow the other side of the sprouts to brown as well. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
  3. Deglaze the pan with 1/4 cup of water and stir well to loosen any caramelized bits on the bottom of the pan. Cover and reduce to a simmer.
  4. Meanwhile bring a pot of water to boil for the gnocchi and cook according to package directions.
  5. Test the sprouts for doneness by piercing with a sharp knife; they should be al dente, not mushy. Add more water and cook longer if needed. As soon as they are done, scoop the gnocchi out of the water with a slotted spoon and add to the pan with the Brussels sprouts.
  6. Stir in the bacon, chopped pecans and thyme and turn the heat to high to thicken the sauce. Add a bit of reserved pasta water if necessary.
  7. Taste for seasonings.
  8. Serve and enjoy!
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October 23, 2009

Photo du Jour - Vintage


One of my favorite vintage French signs. Pin It

October 21, 2009

La Fête du Fromage - Le Garriou

It looks like a little Crottin de Chavignol and it tastes like a little bit of heaven.

Le Garriou
just may be the perfect goat cheese.



It is lush, creamy and melting just under that wrinkly, edible rind. It is chalky and ultra rich in the middle. Its aroma is reminiscent of straw and barnyards.
The "goatiness" is pronounced, but not too overwhelming, as it is rounded out by the other flavors that include a zesty, citrus tang and a refined earthiness.
Un vrai fromage de chèvre!

Le Garriou is an artisan cheese produced on a small farm in the Lot département. It is made with unpasteurized goat's milk and is a heady 45% butterfat.

Savored slowly, with a bit of baguette and a glass of Côtes du Rhône, and life just doesn't get much better! Pin It

October 20, 2009

Photo du Jour - Graffiti!


Now this kind of graffiti, I can live with. Pin It

October 19, 2009

Photo du Jour - Cassis


Cassis is one of those wonderful, old French port villages. It is an enchanting little place that oozes with Mediterranean charm.
After several visits over the last 15 years, I find it as alluring as ever. Pin It

October 15, 2009

La Fête du Fromage - October Round Up

Les fromages français!
Every single entry for October's La Fête du Fromage International Cheese Tasting Event was from la belle France. Can you imagine how happy this made me?


Barbra from Serve it Forth shared her newest addiction with us - Pérail - a luscious, silky textured ewe's milk cheese. She describes it as ..."not overly sheepy but neither is it sheepish; slightly floral and and a little grassy..." Glad to know I'm not the only Pérail addict out there!


She also tasted Le 1909, a more aggressive "Pérail like" cheese produced for the Maître Fromager Affineur in Paris, Androuet. Yet another cheese to add to my "Must Try" list.


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Nathalie of Spaced Out Ramblings carried this scrumptious little drum of Chaource with her from Paris to her home in Rome. With a fat content of almost 50%, Chaource is very rich and creamy! It comes from the Champagne region, so many say that is should be enjoyed with a glass of Champagne, but Nathalie gives plenty of other delicious accompanying food and drink options. As she says, "The sky has no limit."


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Good things come in small packages. Like this enticing walnut and cranberry studded Brie en Croûte that Cool Lassi(e) of Pan Gravy Kadai Curry made for La Fête. That Brie oozing out from the puff pastry shell is absolutely mouthwatering!


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Camille missed the chance to taste the local cheeses while visiting Burgundy, but made up for it with some Délice de Bourgogne that she found in Paris. Although she found this particular piece a bit young, she describes it as buttery and very smooth. I can't wait to try this one!


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Deep in the Ariège, on farms surrounded by green pastures, rugged mountains and crystal clear lakes, the age old tradition of cheese making thrives.
Le Bamalou
is an unpasteurized cow's milk cheese that is matured for several months on wood planks, enriching the cheese with earthy flavors. It is mild, buttery and has nice hints of fruit. Very likable!
A rich red wine such as Cahors or Châteauneuf-du-Pape would be a good match.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Thanks for sharing such delicious cheese everyone!


November marks the 11th Fête du Fromage International Cheese Tasting Event.
If you would like to join in, and I hope you do, please have your entries to me by November 13. The entire round-up will be posted on November 15.

Tell us why you chose this particular cheese. Tell us how it tasted. Tell us about its texture and aroma. Did you eat it on its own? Or with something? Did you drink anything special with your cheese? Would you recommend it or not? Is there something unusual or interesting about it?
  • Photos are wonderful, but not necessary
  • Entries must contain the words La Fête du Fromage and contain a link to Chez Loulou
  • Posts should be written specifically for La Fête du Fromage and not entered in any other food blog event
  • Please send the link to your post to louloufrance (at) gmail (dot) com with the words Fête du Fromage in the subject line
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October 14, 2009

La Fête du Fromage

Look for the entire round up of October's cheese bash tomorrow. Including an interesting new one that I tasted earlier this week.

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October 12, 2009

Photo du Jour - la Musique


A weekly shopping excursion to le marché in Olonzac wouldn't be complete without an accordion player. Pin It

October 10, 2009

Bidding Adieu...

Upon learning of the sudden demise of Gourmet magazine the other day I sat down in front of my cookbook/cooking magazine bookshelves to take a little trip down memory lane with the issues of the magazine that I've collected over the years.

On the shelves, surrounded by over a dozen copies each of Food & Wine, Saveur (both English and French versions), Bon Appetit and Cuisine et Vins de France, were a measly four copies of Gourmet.

Four
.

I was sure that in the last eight or so years I had compiled a larger number than that. Nope.


It made me realize that as sad as I am for the loss of a 68 year old institution and for the cooks, writers, photographers, etc. who lost their jobs so suddenly, I never really had an enduring love affair with Gourmet.
So I bid you adieu.

And in your memory I vow that I will never buy a copy of Everyday With Rachel Ray or Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade. But I can't promise I won't check out Cooking With Paula Deen, because she's just so bad, she's good. Pin It

October 9, 2009

Photo du Jour - Les Olives


Les Lucques, hanging heavy on the tree. Soon to be harvested and crushed into a heady, silky, grassy flavored oil.
It takes about 7-9 kilos of olives to make 1 liter of olive oil. Pin It

October 7, 2009

La Fête du Fromage - La Souréliette

The cutesy name of this cheese just begged for an equally cutesy nickname, and it came to me immediately after buying it. The French word for mouse is une souris and the French verb for smile is sourire, thus la Souréliette was christened The Smiling Mouse.

But the cutesy name didn't stick.
As soon as I found out that la Souréliette is actually named after the Occitan word for the sun - sourel - The Smiling Mouse seemed a bit silly.

And this unforgettable, unpasteurized ewe's milk cheese deserves respect!


La Souréliette de Fédou, also called la Souréliette de Hyelzas, is produced at La Fromagerie de Hyelzas le Fédou in the small village of Hyelzas in the picturesque Lozère département.

It is an uncooked, pressed mountain cheese that gives off a slight barnyard aroma as soon as it comes to room temperature. Its texture is supple and chewy, yet very dense and rich, and it is infused with a wonderful buttery, nutty flavor that is neither too mild nor too strong.

La Souréliette is perfect for those who don't like aggressive cheese, but crave one with real character.

A glass of hearty red such as Cahors or Gaillac would be a good wine pairing.

no need to eat the moldy rind Pin It

October 6, 2009

Photo du Jour - Pumpkin and Eggs


Early autumn offerings from one of my favorite Olonzac market vendors, le Jardin de la Clairette. Pin It

October 4, 2009

Sunday Reading

A little time, a little brine, and you've got yourself some home cured olives.

I love to see our little corner of France through the eyes of others.

Simply making me drool.

I think I need to go redecorate and reorganize my home now. So inspiring!

Such a wicked sense of humor! I love her. And her Letter to Summer is spot on.

The perfect purple scarf.
The perfect purple prune studded and Armagnac infused autumn dessert.

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October 3, 2009

Summer's Final Curtain Call

My summer season as a sous-chef ends tonight. The feeling is bittersweet...

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October 2, 2009

Photo du Jour - Thriving


Nature slowly taking over. Pin It