July 29, 2010

La Fête du Fromage - Brebize


One of the best things about eating my way through the cheeses of France (other than stating the obvious) is that I'm learning about French geography as well.

Not too far from here is the Tarn - a gorgeous region that is home to Albi, a red brick covered bustling market town, and the farm Les Paulinetoises, who have been producing fromage de brebis for over 20 years in the small village of Paulinet.


This unpasteurized, bloomy-rind fromage is very odoriferous.  It is packed with heady barnyard aromas that I appreciate, but might put some people off.  Its bark is worse that its bite though...Brebize is quite mild tasting and seriously delicious.

The flavors are a mix of mushrooms, sweet hay and salty earth and the texture is oozing, smooth and chewy.  I thought it was just perfect smeared on some pain complet and enjoyed with a glass of local rosé.

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July 24, 2010

Pimientos de Padrón


Warning:  These are highly addictive.  And every so often you get a really hot and spicy one. 
Which definitely adds to their appeal.


Pimientos de Padrón
adapted from a recipe in Saveur magazine

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ pound washed and dried pimientos de Padrón
salt - I use sea salt

1. Heat 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

2. Add 1/2 pound washed, thoroughly dried pimientos de Padrón and fry, turning often, until soft and beginning to brown around the edges, 15–20 minutes. Transfer peppers to a bowl and generously season with salt.

Serves 6 - You've got to be kidding!  I would say this amount serves only 3-4.  Or only 2 pimientos de Padrón addicts like me. Pin It

July 21, 2010

La Fête du Fromage - Fromage Pur Chèvre Férmier


This is just the kind of cheese I needed on this hot, sticky summer day.

Fromage Pur Chèvre Férmier is a fresh, unpasteurized goat's cheese produced by a passionate young farmer in Thézan-les-Corbières, about 45 minutes due south of our village.
Les Corbières are a scenic, mountainous region of the Languedoc-Roussillon known for wine, remote villages and Cathar castles.

Over the years I've tasted several different cheeses that have been called chèvre férmier and each one has been totally unique and memorable.  There was the dense Chèvre Férmier from the Haut-Languedoc, the sublime Chèvre Fermier from Roquebrun, the seaweed covered Fromage de Chèvre Férmier from Brittany and the light and nutty Chèvre Férmier from the Pyrénées. 

This chèvre férmier is perfumed with mild almond and slightly sour and refreshing citrus flavors.  It has a velvety smooth, fine texture that melts in your mouth and is just perfect with fresh figs, peaches or grapes.

I would suggest a glass of rosé or a light, fruity red wine to pair with this cheese.

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July 20, 2010

Friday Nights in the Village




A Friday night in our village in the summertime promises many wonderful things;  swallows swooping in the fading light, a small pichet of rosé at the bar and a homemade chorizo, garlic and onion pizza tossed and baked in a van. Pin It

July 18, 2010

La Couleur Verte
















It started with the village blues.   Several months later I explored la couleur rouge.  This week I've put together a collection of Languedoc-Roussillon greens.

The muted, mineral green reflections in the Canal du Midi in springtime, olive green shutters against pale stone and silvery olive green trees.  Brightly painted apple green boats, young fruit on the vine and various shades of green pear, fig and artichoke.  Somber rows of moss green cypress trees, fresh and vibrant kelly green vineyard leaves and splashes of turquoise and sage. Pin It

July 15, 2010

La Fête du Fromage - Tomme de la Cavalerie


Aveyron cheeses never fail to surprise me.
The farmers and fromagers from this picturesque and sparsely populated region produce a stunning array of delicious cow, sheep and goat cheeses.  Cheeses of every texture, affinage and even color are made here.

Take your pick.  Fantastic fromages de chèvre include the creamy little Cabécou de l'Aveyron and the very bold Saint-Christophe.  High on the Plateau du Larzac, where sheep outnumber people, you'll find the world famous Roquefort caves.
This is the region of one of my favorite blues, Bleu des Causses, and rustic and earthy unpasteurized ewe's milk cheeses such as Galette du Larzac and Brebis du Larzac.  The buttery smooth Tomme de Brenac is a superb fromage de vache, or if you like to mix it up a little, try the half cow, half goat cheese, le Petit Campredon.

Tomme de la Cavalerie is another Aveyron charmer.  It is produced in the region surrounding Millau, near the small town of La Cavalerie, which is famous for being a stronghold of the Knights Templar.
This cheese is super buttery, rich and yeasty, with a perfect amount of salt to balance the flavors.  It is an unpasteurized fromage de vache with a slight buttery and milky aroma and mild, exquisite flavor.  I loved it!

A glass of local Minervois red was a great match, and I imagine that Marcillac would be good as well.


Other Aveyron cheeses:
le Lacandou
la Marotte
Margalet
Pérail du Larzac

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July 11, 2010

Blog Notes and Links


My guest post for Andi's French Friday series on her blog, Misadventures With Andi, was posted the other day: Beyond Paris:  My South of France.
A huge merci to Andi for including me in the series!

If you are a cheese lover or a francophile and have the photos to prove it, then please come and join one or more of the Flickr groups that I administer.
French Cheese
La Fête du Fromage
French Markets
French Windows
Colors of the Languedoc - of which I am the only member!  How sad is that?
Minervois


I still sometimes get questions about how many French cheeses I've tasted for La Fête du Fromage.  I've put a link to the entire list - all 177 and counting - under the "Pages" category. 

Our house is still available if you're looking for a place in the south of France, and I've added another house for sale to the sidebar.  Sadly our friends are moving away and need to sell their charming home with a garden and terrace in Saint-Thibéry, located about 15 minutes from the beaches near Cap d'Agde.

If you've ever asked yourself (or someone already living in France - you wouldn't believe how many emails I get on this subject) the question, Should I Move to France?, then David Lebovitz's post might help you come up with a definitive answer.  


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July 8, 2010

La Fête du Fromage - le Pécalou


This has to be one of the most memorable and intriguing goat's cheeses I've ever tasted.  It wasn't soft or pillowy or chalky or spicy or creamy.  There were no grassy or herb flavors, nor did its aroma conjure up images of a barnyard.

Le Pécalou is just a baby in terms of cheese - only 11 days of affinage -  yet is very mature and refined tasting.  Its texture is slightly dry and it crumbles a bit when you cut into it, but not as crumbly as a cheese like Templais Sec.
The flavor is very rich and nutty, with a fair amount of salt, a bit of a tang and a mild goatiness.  It all balances out perfectly.

Finding a wine pairing was a bit difficult.  It didn't work with the local Minervois red, nor did I like it with the only cold white we had in the fridge, a Vin de Pays d'Oc produced in a neighboring village.  On a whim, I tried it with some rosé and was pleasantly surprised at what a great match it was.
Eh voilà, le Pécalou is the perfect cheese for summer!

This divine little fromage de chèvre is produced here in the Languedoc-Roussillon by Les Chevriers de l'Hérault, up near the town of Lodève


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July 3, 2010

Moving to France Tutorial - Part Five

I know it's been a couple of months since my last Moving to France post, but this one was a bit of a challenge to put together.  

(Update: Check out this article)

Once you arrive in France and get your Carte de Séjour sorted out, you will want to join the fabulous French health system.  Actually you must join the French health system.  All permanent residents in France are obliged by law to have national health insurance, which comes in the form of a little green card, the Carte Vitale.
The information on this topic is rather extensive, so in the end, instead of painstakingly re-wording the material from the French government websites, I have simply copied the relevant sections of the Sécurité Sociale guide.  

So, without further ado...how to join the French health system.


As it states in the Livret de Santé:
"In France, everyone is entitled to health insurance to cover the cost of medical care. It is preferable to apply for it before becoming ill. The first step is to apply for “basic” public health insurance, which can be extended by paying for private supplementary insurance ("mutuelle"). For people with a low income, supplementary insurance is available free of charge and is known as supplementary universal medical cover (CMU-Complémentaire).

Who is entitled to “basic” public health insurance?
“Basic” public health insurance (including “basic” CMU) is an entitlement for anyone legally residing in France for at least three months before the request for healthcare (except asylum-seekers who are exempt from this condition).


Where should I apply for public health insurance?

Go to the public health insurance centre in your neighbourhood (ask for the address from the Town Hall’s CCAS, or social assistance centre). If you are using a government-assigned address, go to the public health insurance centre whose address is listed on your certificate of domiciliation.


Documents required:
- Identity: the preferred document is birth certificate, otherwise a passport, identity card or certificate of registration with the OFPRA (French Office for the Protection of Refugees and Stateless Persons) for asylum-seekers or any other document giving proof of your identity;
- Address: certificate of accommodation (with receipt for rent or EDF bill) or government-assigned address registered with an approved organisation. Important: make sure that letters actually reach this address;
- Legal residency in France: any valid residency document issued by the Prefecture: residency card, temporary stay card, proof of receipt of application, temporary approval for stay, appointment/summons, asylum notice, etc.;
- Income: written proof of all income received from January to December of the previous year (wages, welfare benefits, etc.).
 

Using the Public Health cover System
As a general rule, the public health insurance system reimburses two-thirds* of your healthcare expenses (except on glasses and dentures), but the patient must pay the entire sum first. In healthcare centres, hospitals and certain doctors’ offices and pharmacies, patients may pay only one-third of the expenses (known as the “ticket modérateur”), by showing their health insurance card (paper certificate or Vitale Card). Supplementary CMU insurance or mutual and private insurance companies cover the additional amount.
Important: the “100%” is not free in all cases: those with certain chronic illnesses can be exempt from paying the ticket modérateur, and are considered “100% covered by the public health insurance system”. However, the “100%” applies only to the care received for chronic illnesses."


The French Government Website (in French)


I have to add that the following documents may or may not be asked for (some have already been listed above) but you should have them ready just in case.
  • Passports
  • Details of place of birth (as well as your partner's and children's information)
  • Marriage and birth certificates of all family members
  • Proof of address in France with proof of ownership (deeds) or rental agreement
  • Date of permanent arrival in the departément
  • Proof of residency in France for at least three months (in the form of three months EDF or France Télecom bills, rent statements or mortgage payments or a notarized statement of your home purchase)
  • Proof of income for at least the previous 12 months, whether in France or elsewhere or an avis d'imposition or latest French tax bill.
  • A RIB (Relevé d'Identité Bancaire) provided by your bank
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Our Carte Vitale story just goes to show that doing your homework when dealing with French bureaucracy will (sometimes) get you everywhere!

We went to the local CPAM office in Béziers to apply as soon as we got our Cartes de Séjour, as we had been informed to do.  Luckily we had armed ourselves with knowledge of the current law, because even though it had passed a few years before, the powers that be obviously forgot to send the memo down south to the CPAM office in Béziers.
The man behind the desk told us quite confidently that non, we couldn't join the French health system because France had no reciprocity with America, which is true - France and America do not have reciprocity when it comes to medical care.  In turn, we confidently and patiently told him that it didn't matter, because (at the time) the law stated that anyone legally residing in France for at least three months of the year must join the system.
He sat there for a moment, staring at us with a kind of deer-in-the-headlights look, then suddenly grabbed the telephone and made a couple of calls.  When he hung up he looked at us with a smile and said oui, you are correct."
Phew!
Thirty minutes and a mountain of paperwork later, we were official Carte Vitale carrying residents of France.


*To cover the 30% of costs that are generally not covered by the system, we purchase a Top Up, or mutuelle from a private company.  The price for the two of us is about €130 a month and although many people we know choose not to have the added expense, we like that it gives us the freedom to go to private doctors as well as state doctors.


The next installment of the series will be about obtaining the elusive 10 Year Carte de Résident.  Some of the stories I've heard on this subject have been real doozies and would love to hear from more of you if you want to share your experiences.

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July 1, 2010

La Fête du Fromage - Coeur de Joux


Anyone who loves cheese has to appreciate the array of luscious cow's milk cheeses produced in the Franche-Comté.  The farms and fromagères of this region have given us Vacherin du Haut Doubs (often called Mont d'Or), Bleu de Gex, Morbier, Emmental Français and one of the most perfect cheeses ever, Comté.

My newest discovery from this area is Coeur de Joux.

Its two dominant flavors are grass and walnuts, with sweet hints of fruit thrown in to balance everything out.  Coeur de Joux is soft and mild, with a dense, chewy texture that is very similar to its famous cousin, Comté.
This is a truly amiable cheese; there's nothing harsh or smelly or aggressive about it.  If I had to describe Coeur de Joux in one word, it would have to be uncomplicated. 

A good wine match would be Riesling or a soft red from Bordeaux.

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