January 27, 2007

Our South of France, Part II




La Garrigue is the French term for the low scrub land found on limestone hills along the Mediterranean basin. We're surrounded by it.
Wild thyme, rosemary and juniper fill the air with their heady aromas and tall, slender cypress trees punctuate the landscape.


Symmetrical rows of vines. I think they're beautiful.


Visually, it is a stunning place to live. We never get tired of looking out over the views across the valley to the Pyrénées.




These stone walls are perfect hiding places for all kinds of lizards, snails and creepy little scorpions. The old houses are all made of stone and birds make nests where the mortar has crumbled away.
This is a good site about the Minervois, in both French and English.

It's pretty cold today, but the sky is brilliant blue and the sun is shining, so I'm signing off the computer and going out for a walk.
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January 26, 2007

One

Yesterday Chez Loulou turned one!
And I forgot in the midst of having no power for four hours and then making the three hour round trip drive to the airport in Toulouse to pick up my husband whose been in the States for the last week. Yea! He's home!

Starting this blog was a very impromptu thing and I'm so glad I did. A very warm thank you to all who read, comment, inspire and encourage.
Looking forward to another year! Pin It

World Nutella Day

Why didn't anyone think of this before?

Sara at Ms. Adventures in Italy and Shelley from At Home in Rome have proclaimed that February 6 be forever celebrated as World Nutella Day. We are asked to eat, celebrate and create something delectable with Nutella for this momentous occasion.

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January 22, 2007

The Final Ten - 91 Through 100

91. New Lok Kee Restaurtant in Queens, New York. This one is recommended by my husband. His eyes fill with longing whenever he thinks about their shrimp in lobster sauce, egg drop soup or wontons. He is a man who knows his Chinese food, so if you're in the neighborhood, try it out! Read the New York Times review here.

New Lok Kee
36-50 Main St (37th Ave)
Flushing, Queens
(718) 762-6048

92. New Orleans Rum made by Celebration Distillation Corporation. This is hand crafted, single barrel aged and the only rum made from Louisiana sugar cane. Incredibly fragrant and spicy-sweet, it is great on its own or as a mixer.




93. Lucques Olives. Originally from Lucca, Italy and now found mainly in the Languedoc-Roussillon, this bright green olive has a small crescent shaped stone, crunchy flesh and an incredibly soft, nutty flavour. They're picked early for curing and eating or later, after they've turned black, for olive oil. They are unlike any olive I've ever tasted, not too strong nor too salty.

94. Jambalaya. I've written about jambalaya before. When I started researching the origins of this versatile dish, it became clear that they are muddled, at best. Some say it is a Creole dish while others claim it is a Cajun dish. Some claim that it is a combination of both. I read that some believe the term Jambalaya is Louisiana French, from the Provençal "jambalaia". Others think that it derives from the Spanish jamon or the French jambon, meaning "ham," the French article "à la" and finally, "ya", of West African origin meaning rice OR it could possibly be the combining of the Creole words "Jhamba" (gift) and "laya" (rice). It can be made with various combinations of pork, chicken, duck, oysters, shrimp, sausage, crawfish, tomatoes, celery, green pepper and onions cooked with rice. Here's a recipe for Cajun style Chicken and Andouille Jambalaya from Louisiana Real and Rustic by Emeril Lagasse.


Chicken and Andouille Jambalaya

1/2 cup vegetable oil
3 cups chopped onions
1 cup chopped bell peppers
3 teaspoons salt
1 1/4 teaspoons cayenne
1 pound andouille, chorizo, or other smoked sausage, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices
1 1/2 pounds boneless white and dark chicken meat, cut into 1-inch cubes
3 bay leaves
3 cups medium-grain white rice
6 cups water
1 cup chopped green onions

Heat the oil in a large cast-iron Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions, bell peppers, 2 teaspoons of the salt, and 1 teaspoon of the cayenne. Stirring often, brown the vegetables for about 20 minutes, or until they are caramelized and dark brown in color. Scrape the bottom and sides of the pot to loosen any browned particles. Add the sausage and cook, stirring often for 10 to 15 minutes, scraping the bottom and sides of the pot to loosen any browned particles.
Season the chicken with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Add the chicken and the bay leaves to the pot. Brown the chicken for 8 to 10 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot to loosen any browned particles.
Add the rice and stir for 2 to 3 minutes to coat evenly. Add the water, stir to combine, and cover. Cook over medium heat for 30 to 35 minutes, without stirring, or until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed. Remove the pot from the heat and let stand, covered, for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the bay leaves.
Stir in the green onions and serve.

Yield: 10 to 12 servings
(a side note on this recipe; I found using 5 cups water is enough and I lower the heat when I add the rice so it doesn't burn on the bottom)


95. Gianduja Chocolate. (also spelled Gianduia) There's a whole story about the origins of this cocoa and hazelnut confection from Torino, Italy. You can read it here. This is addictive, luscious chocolate! Once I made some Gianduja brownies for a party I catered and guests were literally taking platters of brownies out of my hands, not just a brownie or two, but the entire platter. This is the recipe I used.

Gianduja Brownies

Source: Gourmet - February 1998

1 1/4 cups hazelnuts (about 6 1/4 ounces)
4 ounces fine-quality bittersweet chocolate
(not unsweetened)
3 ounces fine-quality milk chocolate
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
1/4 cup Nutella*
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs

*available at specialty foods shops and many supermarkets

Preheat oven to 350°F and butter and flour a 9-inch square baking pan, knocking out excess flour.

Toast and skin hazelnuts (procedure this page). In a food processor pulse hazelnuts until coarsely ground (bits should be about 1/8 inch).

Chop chocolates into small pieces and in a double boiler or a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water melt chocolates with butter and Nutella, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove top of double boiler or bowl from heat.

While chocolates are melting, into a bowl sift together flour, baking powder, and a pinch salt. Whisk sugar into chocolate mixture until combined well. Add eggs, whisking until mixture is glossy and smooth. Stir in flour mixture and hazelnuts until just combined.

Pour batter into baking pan and bake in middle of oven 35 to 40 minutes, or until a tester comes out with moist crumbs adhering to it. Cool brownies completely in pan on a rack and cut into 16 squares. Brownies keep, layered between sheets of wax paper in an airtight container at cool room temperature, 5 days.

Makes 16 brownies.


96. Madhur Jaffrey's Ultimate Curry Bible. With over 150 Indian and Asian curry recipes and a few curries from places like South Africa and Europe thrown in, this cookbook is very appropriately named!

97. A Pair of Tongs. Another indispensable kitchen tool. I have a few pairs, one long handled and one short handled, and a pair with heat resistant silicone on the end to use with non-stick cookware.

98. Mole Poblano. A rich and complex sauce from the Mexican state of Pueblo that is made with around 30 different ingredients including toasted, dried chile peppers, nuts, a small amount of Mexican chocolate, spices, onions, stale tortillas and garlic. It is time consuming to make, but worth the effort.

99. Lavender Sorbet. Another sorbet I'd be making if I had an ice cream maker. It is an edible perfume.

Lavender Sorbet

4 cups water
1 3/4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons dried, culinary lavender blossoms
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Bring first 3 ingredients to boil in heavy medium saucepan over high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Boil without stirring until syrup is reduced to 4 cups, about 8 minutes. Strain syrup into medium bowl.
Chill syrup until cold, about 2 hours. Transfer to ice cream maker. Add lemon juice. Process according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to covered container, freeze until firm, about 2 hours. (Can be made 1 week ahead. Keep frozen).
Makes about 1 quart

And, finally...

100. Saveur Magazine. If I'd been able to find their 2007 Top 100 List online, I never would have thought to make my own.

Has anyone found it online yet? If so, please send me a link!
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January 21, 2007

Top 100 - 86 Through 90

86. Phad Prik Moo (pork with red chili sauce). A super easy, quick dish that is full of crunchy vegetables and nice and spicy. I found the recipe in Simply Thai Cooking by Wandee Young and Byron Ayanoglu.

Pork With Red Chili Sauce

10 ounces trimmed pork tenderloin
1/2 medium green pepper
6 long green beans
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
2 tablespoons red curry paste
1 cup water
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 cup bamboo shoot strips
20 whole fresh basil leaves
strips of red pepper
2 1/2 cups freshly steamed rice

1. Slice tenderloin into strips that are 1/4 inch thick, 2 inch long and about 1 inch wide. If you find it difficult to cut thinly through fresh meat, leave it in the freezer for 15-20 minutes to harden slightly, and then slice. Reserve.
2. Cut pepper into 1 inch squares. Trim ends of long beans and then chop into 1 inch pieces. Reserve peppers and beans together.
3. Heat oil in a wok (or large frying pan) until it is just about to smoke. Lower the heat and add garlic and curry paste and stir fry for 45 seconds. Immediately add water and raise heat to maximum. Stir-cook for 1 minute and add fish sauce and sugar. Stir-cook for 2 minutes, until the sauce is smooth and bubbling.
4. Add reserved pork and stir-cook for 2 minutes. Add reserved peppers and long beans, as well as the bamboo shoot strips, and stir-cook for 4-5 minutes, until everything appears to be cooked and the sauce has thickened somewhat. Add 3/4 of the basil leaves and stir into the sauce. Take off the fire and transfer to a serving dish. Top with some red pepper strips and the rest of the basil leaves. Serve immediately, accompanied by steamed rice.
Serves 4

87. The Fried Shrimp Po' Boy. I order it undressed because I don't like mayonnaise, but then pour on lots of Crystal hot sauce. A dressed po' boy comes with mayo, lettuce, tomatoes and pickles. The shrimp are sweet and firm with a hot, crunchy coating. I like them at Elizabeth's, with a side order of praline bacon. (because the fried shrimp just aren't fattening enough!)

88. A French Market Bag. We use them at the grocery store and outdoor markets, for carrying wine and food to friend's houses and they're perfect to take to the beach.



89. Roasted Red Peppers. I like them marinated in olive oil and garlic, on sandwiches, in tarts or quiches, on salads and mixed with scrambled eggs. Making you own is easy, even if you don't have a gas stove.
Turn on your oven's broiler, line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and roast the peppers about 6 inches from the broiler, turning them as the skin starts to blister and blacken. Once they are all roasted, take them out of the oven, wrap them up tightly in the foil and cover the bundle with a kitchen towel and leave to steam, about 20-30 minutes. When they're cool enough to handle, slip the skins off and remove the stem and seeds, but never under running water! Even though it makes the process easier, the flavor goes down the drain with the skin. Tear the flesh into strips and either eat that day or cover in olive oil and keep in the fridge for several days.

90. Dooky Chase's Restaurant in New Orleans, Louisiana. Until August 29, 2005, chef Leah Chase had been serving up some of the best Creole food in the city. Hurricane Katrina flooded the restaurant, but I read that she planned to reopen on January 6, on her 84th birthday. I remember her gumbo and fried chicken were the best I've ever had!

2301 Orleans Ave
New Orleans, LA
(504) 821-0535 Pin It

January 20, 2007

And the List Goes On - 81 Through 85

81. The Meyer Lemon. A very sweet and juicy fruit with tangerine and floral undertones. It has a soft, edible skin and is excellent to cook with.

82. Smitten Kitchen blog. She is a wonderful writer and I would enjoy this blog for that reason alone, but then you add the great recipes and photos...makes it irresistible!

83. Le Stomajo Restaurant in Valras Plage, France. Yes, the name is a bit odd, but this is why: S for Stéphane; TO for Tony; MA for Malik; JO for Joël, the four creator's names. They have an excellent 13.50 € menu for lunch or dinner, including weekends and offer beautiful seafood platters à la carte. Last time we went I enjoyed a savory cake of hazelnuts and comté cheese with sautéed wild mushrooms followed by quenelles Lyonnaises, and a sublime crème brûlée for dessert. A wonderful value for 13.50 €!

Le STOMAJO
9, rue du Lieutenant Panis
34350 Valras Plage
FRANCE
+33 (0)4.67.32.45.10


84. The Peanut Buster Parfait from Dairy Queen. This has always been my favorite splurge in a fast food place. It's got the sweet, cold ice cream, warm hot fudge and the salty peanuts. A sublime trio!



85. Stuffed Zucchini. I like to use the cute, little round zucchini for this dish but you can use the long variety as well. Try to buy them young, when the flesh is still sweet and dense. This is just one idea, you could omit the bacon to make a vegetarian version or add cooked rice or ground meat. Basically, they are great to experiment with and offer numerous possibilities.

Stuffed Round Zucchini
makes 6

6 small, round zucchini
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus a bit more for drizzling
1/2 pound lardons (thickly cut bacon cut into dice)
4 shallots, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1-2 tablespoons fresh thyme or rosemary, or both, minced
zest and juice from 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
Cut the top off each and reserve. Scoop out the flesh, leaving about 1/2 inch of shell, and chop up the flesh.
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat and cook the bacon until lightly browned. Add the shallots, garlic and zucchini flesh and cook until soft, another couple of minutes.
Pour the hot mixture into a bowl and mix in the herbs, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Fill each shell with the mixture. Put into a lightly oiled baking dish and top with the reserved tops. Drizzle a bit of olive oil over each zucchini.
Bake until tender, about 45 minutes.

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January 19, 2007

Interrupting One List to Write Another

I went on a blind date yesterday. Or at least that's what it felt like.
I met my first fellow blogger in person and I am so glad I did! Riana, who writes These Days in French Life, is a really cool woman! We spent the afternoon looking at food, talking about food, buying food and eating food. My idea of a great time.
I'm surprised our paths haven't crossed before, we grew up fairly close to each other and attended the same university. But, it took both of us moving to France and writing blogs to finally bump into each other.
I look forward to having her as a friend and sharing a pitcher of margaritas soon! If we can find some decent tequila. (and after she has her baby, of course)

Oh, and she memed me. So here's my list of 5 useless facts about myself. Consider yourself forewarned.

1. I think that leftover Thai green curry makes the best breakfast, ever.
2. I like to drive by myself, turn the music up really, really loud and sing.
3. I should have been an Entomologist. I wanted to be an Entomologist. Still don't know why I didn't follow up with that.
4. I loathe sour cream and mayonnaise.
5. I like doing laundry but I won't iron. Haven't owned an iron in 10 years. Pin It

Top 100 - 73 Through 80


73. La Table Bretonne in Béziers, France. This little crêperie in the center of Béziers offers delicious, savory buckwheat crêpes and tempting, sweet crêpes for dessert. My favorites are the Tartiflette, filled with bacon, potatoes and reblochon cheese, and the Popeye, filled with spinach, crème fraîche and emmenthal cheese. Dessert options include crêpes covered in cinnamon and apple compote with vanilla ice cream, a crêpe spread with homemade, bittersweet chocolate sauce and toasted almonds and the famous, flaming crêpes Suzette. The owner's are a delightful husband and wife team, he cooks and she works the dining room.

La Table Bretonne
21, rue Viennet
34500 Béziers
FRANCE
+33 (0) 4.67.49.00.66

74. A Crawfish Boil. Imagine a mound of bright, red crawfish mixed with potatoes and chunks of corn on the cob, piled high in the middle of a newspaper covered picnic table. The air is thick with the tempting aroma of cayenne, onions, garlic and bay leaves. Scoop one up, pinch da tail and suck da head!

75. Walla Walla Sweet Onions. We enjoyed these all summer long when I was growing up. Tomato and onion salad, one of my mom's greatest summer recipes, was my favorite. This sweet, mild onion originated in Corsica and was brought to this small town in southeast Washington State in the 1800's by a French soldier. It is now celebrated every year during the Walla Walla Sweet Onion Festival.

76. Piperade. A vibrant and hearty dish from the Basque region. Serve with plenty of crusty bread.

Piperade

1 onion, thinly sliced
3-4 Peppers - mix of red and green, at least one of each, chopped into large pieces
3-4 large, ripe tomatoes - peeled, seeded and chopped
fresh chili, according to taste and desired heat
2 cloves garlic, minced
thyme
bay leaf (fresh preferably)
salt to taste
4 eggs, beaten

Heat some olive oil in a large frying pan. Gently cook the onion until it is soft. Add the peppers, and cook gently for 10 minutes. Then add the tomatoes, garlic, chili and herbs, and continue to cook until everything is tender and has melted together.
Add the beaten eggs to the mixture and stir, evenly and quickly so the eggs blend nicely into the sauce.


77. The Heat Resistant Spatula. I have three of these and think they're the greatest invention! They're virtually indestructible and withstand heat up to 500 degrees.

78. Copper River Salmon. One of the richest, tastiest salmon in the world. It's nutty flavor and stunning red color can be savored for only three to four weeks a year, from around May 15 until early June. Last year's price per pound was over $30.00, but if you can find some, it is well worth the price.

79. Dim Sum. When we lived in San Francisco, Sunday mornings meant dim sum for brunch. Trolleys stacked with little plates of various kinds of steamed and fried dumplings, sautéed vegetables, noodles and roasted meats are wheeled around for you to pick and choose from. A great alternative to omelets, waffles and hash browns.

80. Granny Smith Apple Sorbet. This was one of the sorbet choices on the menu at the restaurant where I was a pastry chef. I haven't made it in years but still remember the sweet, tart and tangy flavor. I'm making it again as soon as I get an ice cream maker.

Granny Smith Apple Sorbet

6 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored
2/3 C. lemon juice, lime juice, or a combination of both
1/3 C. sugar
1/3 C. calvados or applejack

Slice 5 of the apples and puree in a blender or food processor. Chop the sixth apple finely.
Combine all ingredients and whisk together until sugar is dissolved.
Pour into 1 1/2 quart (or larger) ice cream maker and process until firm following the manufacturer's instructions.
Serve immediately, or freeze for later use.

Serves 6.
.
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January 17, 2007

Top 100 - 68 Through 72

68. The Sweet Potato Queen's Big Ass Cookbook (and Financial Planner) by Jill Conner Browne. Prepare to laugh your "big ass" off while you read this one! Who can resist recipes with names like these; Love Lard, Mystery Mush, My Very Own Ho-Made Blueberry Muffins, Bitch Bacon Bread Sticks, Chocolatopolous, Miss Lexie's Pineapple Casserole, Armadillo Hunters' Shrimp and Grilled Bologna Po-Boy. This hilarious book also offers "advice" on plastic surgery, motherhood and careers.

69. Tarte Tatin aux Poires. A simple and delicious tart with beautiful, golden chunks of pear nestled in caramel and pastry.

Tarte Tatin aux Poires

2 pounds firm-ripe Bosc or Anjou pears (4 to 6)
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
1/2 cup sugar
8 oz. frozen puff pastry, defrosted (or your own puff pastry, if you choose)

Peel, halve, and core pears.

In a 9- to 10-inch ovenproof non-stick skillet or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet heat butter over moderate heat until foam subsides and stir in sugar (sugar will not be dissolved). Arrange pears, cut sides up, in skillet. Cook without stirring until sugar mixture forms a deep golden caramel. (This can take as little as 10 minutes or as much as 25, depending on skillet and stove.) Cool pears completely in skillet.

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Place the pastry over caramelized pears and tuck the edge around pears, down into the skillet. Bake tart in middle of oven until pastry is golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes.

Have ready a rimmed serving plate slightly larger than skillet. As soon as tart has finished baking, invert plate over skillet and, wearing oven mitts and keeping plate and skillet firmly pressed together, invert tart onto plate.

Serve tart warm or at room temperature with whipped cream, ice cream or crème fraîche.


70. Filet Mignon with homemade Bearnaise Sauce. I'm not a huge fan of steak, but when our friend made this for us one evening, with potatoes on the side to pour even more Bearnaise sauce on, I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. The filet was perfectly cooked and the Bearnasie sauce, oh my god, it was incredible!

71. AOC Minervois La Livinière in the Languedoc Roussillon. I live right in the middle of this small wine Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, so I'm a bit spoiled. Seven of our neighbor's are wine makers and I have to say, it is convenient to be able to walk up the street, knock on a beautiful, stone barn door and buy wine for as little as 2 euros a bottle. Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvèdre are the main grape varietals.


72. CC's Coffee House in New Orleans, Louisiana. I was fortunate enough to have worked across the street from the one in the French Quarter, a contributing factor to what is now my caffeine addiction. Their iced coffee sustained me through the hot and humid summers.

CC's Coffee House
941 Royal Street
New Orleans , Louisiana 70116
504-581-6996
.
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January 16, 2007

Top 100 - 61 Through 67

61. Varages Faïence Provençale. Earthenware from Varages, in Provence The week after we arrived in France we took a drive to this village located in the Haut Var to purchase tableware for our kitchen. The factory, which has been operating since 1695, is a riot of shapes and colors, with an unbelievable array of pottery to choose from.

62. 5 Spot in Seattle, Washington. Located on the top of Queen Anne Hill, this diner is the home of the "American Food Festival Series" which features kitschy regional specialties from the Continental U.S.A. The regional food menu changes about every three months plus they offer an old standby menu offering fabulous brunch, lunch and dinner.

5 Spot
1502 Queen Anne Ave N
Seattle, WA 98109
(206) 285-SPOT

63. Bucatini all'Amatriciana. A wonderful, zesty sauce made with pancetta, onions and tomatoes. One of my all time favorite's, it is delightfully easy and quick to make.
The recipe I use comes from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan.

Bucatini All'amatriciana
Yield: 4 servings.

4 ounces pancetta (Italian bacon)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, drained and cut up
Chopped hot red chile pepper, to taste
Salt
1 pound bucatini or other pasta
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoons freshly grated Romano cheese

Cut the pancetta into strips about 1/2 inch wide and 1 inch long. Put the oil, butter and onion in a saucepan. Saute over medium heat until the onion is pale gold, then add the pancetta. Cook about 1 minute, stirring once or twice. Add tomatoes, chile and salt to taste. Cook, uncovered, at a steady, gentle simmer for 25 minutes. Taste and correct for salt and chile.
Cook the pasta according to package directions and drain. Transfer immediately to a serving bowl. Toss with the sauce, then add the cheeses and toss thoroughly.

Hubig's Pies


64. Hubig's Pies in New Orleans. An institution in New Orleans since the 1920's, this bakery in the Faubourg Marigny turns out about 30,000 individually sized, half moon shaped pies a day, filling the neighborhood with the aroma of lemon, cherry, coconut, sweet potato, pineapple, strawberry, peach and my all time favorite, apple. When you need a cure for your sweet tooth, they can be found at just about any corner grocery store in New Orleans.

65. Rosemary Honey. A lightly perfumed, well balanced honey that tastes lovely drizzled on bread, goat's cheese or in yogurt and is delicious in lamb and chicken recipes.

66. Patricia Wells. She is the author of nine books, a chef, a restaurant critic for the International Herald Tribune and l'Express, lives in Paris and Provence, has a very successful cooking school and recently ran the New York Marathon to raise funds for the American Liver Foundation. This is a woman I admire!

67. The Margarita. Freshly squeezed lime juice, Cointreau, tequila, ice and salt around the rim. Add some tortilla chips and guacamole and a warm beach and I'm in heaven.


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January 15, 2007

Slow Down

The last couple of days I've only had time to write about five of my favorite foodie things instead of ten because we've been busy socializing!
I hope to have my Top 100 List finished by the weekend. Pin It

Top 100 - 56 Through 60

56. A chef's knife. I own a Wüsthof Grand Prix that I bought on sale about 10 years ago for $50. It has perfect balance and has got to be the best kitchen tool I've ever purchased.

57. A & W Root Beer float. Sweet and frosty root beer with a creamy scoop of vanilla ice cream floating on top. A perfect combination! This is of my favorite's things from childhood.

58. Tortilla de patatas or tortilla española. So simple, but so satisfying and versatile. A Spanish tortilla can be eaten warm or cold, is delicious any time of the day and is great to serve at parties.
This recipe came from Fine Cooking magazine.

Spanish Potato Tortilla (Tortilla Española)
by Sarah Jay

If you have a mandoline, this would be a great time to use it.
Serves four as a main course; twelve as a tapa.

ingredients

1-3/4 cups vegetable oil for frying (I use plain olive oil, but never a great extra-virgin)
1-3/4 lb. (about 5 medium) low- to medium-starch potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, peeled
2-1/4 tsp. coarse salt
12 to 14 oz. onions (2 to 3 medium), diced
5 medium cloves garlic, very coarsely chopped (optional)
6 large eggs
1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper (optional)

how to make

In a 10-1/2-inch nonstick skillet that's at least 1-1/2 inches deep, heat the oil on medium high. While the oil is heating, slice the potatoes thinly, about 1/8 inch. Transfer to a bowl and sprinkle on 2 tsp. of the salt, tossing to distribute it well.

When the oil is very hot (a potato slice will sizzle vigorously around the edges without browning), gently slip the potatoes into the oil with a skimmer or slotted spoon. Fry the potatoes, turning occasionally (trying not to break them) and adjusting the heat so they sizzle but don't crisp or brown. Set a sieve over a bowl or else line a plate with paper towels. When the potatoes are tender, after 10 to 12 min., transfer them with the skimmer to the sieve or lined plate.

Add the onions and garlic (if using) to the pan. Fry, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft and translucent but not browned (you might need to lower the heat), 7 to 9 min. Remove the pan from the heat and, using the skimmer, transfer the onions and garlic to the sieve or plate with the potatoes. Drain the oil from the skillet, reserving at least 1 Tbs. (strain the rest and reserve to use again, if you like) and wipe out the pan with a paper towel so it's clean. Scrape out any stuck-on bits, if necessary.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs, 1/4 tsp. salt, and the pepper (if using) with a fork until blended. Add the drained potatoes, onions, and garlic and mix gently to combine with the egg, trying not to break the potatoes (some will anyway).

Heat the skillet on medium high. Add the 1 Tbs. reserved oil. Let the pan and oil get very hot (important so the eggs don't stick), and then pour in the potato and egg mixture, spreading it evenly. Cook for 1 min. and then lower the heat to medium low, cooking until the eggs are completely set at the edges, halfway set in the center, and the tortilla easily slips around in the pan when you give it a shake, 8 to 10 min. You may need to nudge the tortilla loose with a knife or spatula.

Set a flat, rimless plate that's at least as wide as the skillet upside down over the pan. Lift the skillet off the burner and, with one hand against the plate and the other holding the skillet's handle, invert the skillet so the tortilla lands on the plate (it should fall right out). Set the pan back on the heat and slide the tortilla into it, using the skimmer to push any stray potatoes back in under the eggs as the tortilla slides off the plate. Once the tortilla is back in the pan, tuck the edges in and under itself (to neaten the sides). Cook until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, hot, and with no uncooked egg on it, another 5 to 6 min.

Transfer the tortilla to a serving platter and let cool at least 10 min. Serve warm, at room temperature, or slightly cool. Cut into wedges or small squares, sticking a toothpick in each square if serving as an appetizer.


59. Ail Rose de Lautrec (pink garlic from Lautrec). A sweeter and more refined garlic variety that is grown exclusively around the town of Lautrec, in the south of France. This culinary treasure has it's own festival every August and has inspired dozens of recipes.


60. Field to Feast blog. Carolyn writes from Zimbabwe. Her recipes are mouth-watering and I love reading about her life. (sadly she's stopped writing)
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January 14, 2007

Top 100 - 51 Through 55

51. Spring restaurant in Paris. Highly recommended by my husband's son who ate there in November. I'll have the chance to go in April and really look forward to it! The chef creates a daily menu with fresh ingredients from the markets.

52. Chipotle Peppers in Adobo. Dried, red jalapeño peppers are first smoked then packed in a special tomato and vinegar based sauce. The result is a rich, smoky and tangy flavor that adds a nice kick to mayonnaise, chicken salad, soups and barbecue sauces. I always have some in my pantry.


53. Raw Oysters. One of my favorite things to do in New Orleans is to sit at the bar at the Acme Oyster House and order a half dozen oysters and a cold beer. I slurp them down drizzled with lemon juice and hot sauce on a Saltine cracker and I won't eat them any other way!

54. Tuscan Chicken Liver Spread. I found this recipe a few years ago and often take it to parties when asked to bring something to nibble. People try a bit, have a bit more, ask me what it is and when I tell them they get a horrified/surprised look in their eyes. "But I don't like liver." Then they eat some more.

Tuscan Chicken Liver Spread
Makes about 8 servings
From The Campagna Table by Mark Strausman

1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 onion, minced
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
1 pound chicken livers
1/4 cup Cognac or other brandy
1 teaspoon capers
salt and freshly ground pepper

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil and the butter over high heat until the butter is just starting to brown. Add the onion, garlic and chicken livers to the pan and stir around a minute. Tilt the pan away from yourself and carefully add the Cognac, you don't want it to ignite. Lower the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the livers are cooked but still pink in the middle.
Remove from the heat and stir in the capers, salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until cool then put the mixture into a food processor and process until smooth. Taste again for salt and pepper.
Serve on toasted or grilled peasant bread slices (rubbed with garlic if you like)

55. Crémant de Limoux. A lovely, sparkling wine from the Languedoc region of France made via the méthode champenoise. Cousin to another sparkler, Blanquette de Limoux, which was created an entire century before Dom Perignon came onto the scene, Crémant de Limoux is a mixture of mainly Mauzac grapes with smaller amounts of Chardonnay and Chenin grapes.
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January 13, 2007

Top 100 - 41 Through 50

41. Saint Marcellin cheese. A sweet, soft and creamy cheese that is usually sold in little ceramic crocks to keep it's shape. The taste is mushroomy and earthy, some say fruity. As it ages the texture becomes more chalky. Delicious served with some olives and a glass of Châteauneuf du Pape.

42. The Pitcher. For serving water, wine, sangria, lemonade, margaritas, etc.


43. Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen. A very well researched and knowledgeable cookbook featuring the complex, unique and often overlooked flavors of Mexico. I've had this book for ten years and think it is fantastic.

44. Lucques Olive Tapenade. I prefer the flavor of tapenade made with green olives rather than black olives. And my favorite green olive to use is the Lucques, although manzanilla or green Greek olives would work with this recipe. Spread it on some bread and serve with apéritifs.

Lucques Olive Tapenade

1 cup pitted green olives
2-3 anchovies, rinsed and dried
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
1 clove garlic
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
Combine all ingredients except the olive oil in a food processor and pulse until you have a coarse paste. Add a little olive oil at a time until you reach a smooth consistency.
Makes one cup.
Can be kept in the refrigerator, covered, for several weeks.

45. H & H Bagels Truly the best! If only they were available in France...

46. Hand Blender or Immersion Blender. Saves me from having to purée soups in a food processor and therefore, from burning myself in the process. Also useful for making smoothies, fruit sauces, whipping butter and making custard. It takes up very little space in my tiny kitchen and it is one of those tools that I reach for again and again.

47. Bar Pinoxto in Barcelona, Spain. Located inside La Boqueria market, this little bar with only 12 counter seats and a couple of small tables is my favorite place for a café con leche or lunch. There is no menu but Juanito, the lively proprietor and quite the local celebrity, will tell you what is being served that day. My favorites were the grilled razor clams, grilled whole little green peppers and salt cod croquettes. The bar is frequented by locals as well as tourists and the counter seats fill up early.

48. Susan Spicer. Chef and owner of Bayona and Herbsaint in New Orleans. I was introduced to her cooking on my first visit to New Orleans when we snagged a last minute reservation at Bayona. Housed in a 200 year old Creole cottage in the French Quarter, Bayona was opened by Spicer in 1990 and has been winning awards and serving some of the best food in the city ever since. Herbsaint was opened with chef Donald Link in 2000, and lucky for us, it was just around the corner from our apartment. We ate there as often as possible!

49. Leite's Culinaria website. An elegant and mouth-watering collection of recipes, food writing, book reviews and resources for food lovers.

50. Vin D'Oranges. I wrote about this homemade apéritif back in November and am now on my fourth batch. I've tried it with rosé twice, red and now white. The red wine version tasted too much like sangria, which I love, just not in the winter, but the rosé version was excellent. The white wine version will be ready next week.

Vin d'Oranges

7 juice oranges (about 2 1/2 pounds), preferably organic
2 bottles dry white wine, rosé wine or fruity red wine (I used rosé)
grated zest of one orange
1 cup sugar
1 cup vodka

Peel the oranges and chop the flesh into 1/2 inch cubes on a cutting board that will collect the juices. Put the orange pieces and all the collected juice into a 12 cup, wide-mouthed jar with a tight fitting lid, or divide between two smaller jars. Pour the wine over and close the jar tightly. Set aside in a cool place for 10 days. Each day, gently shake the jar and on the 10th day, add the orange zest.
On the 11th day, strain the wine into a large bowl, pressing on the oranges to extract all the juice. Discard the oranges. Add the sugar to the wine and stir until dissolved. Then add the vodka.
Pour through a funnel into 3, sterilized wine bottles, seal with corks and set aside for another 10 days in a cool place.
Serve very cold.
Drink within three months.

This recipe comes from a cookbook published in 1994 called Backroad Bistros, Farmhouse Fare
by Jane Sigal.
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January 12, 2007

Top 100 - 31 Through 40

31. A Vinaigrier. I love making my own vinegar and this vinaigrier is so much nicer to look at than a bunch of cheesecloth wrapped wine bottles.


32. Marianne's Ice Cream in Santa Cruz, California. Mandarin Orange ice cream, Coconut ice cream, Northern Oregon Blackberry ice cream, Mexican Chocolate ice cream, Banana ice cream, Cinnamon Caramel ice cream, Highway 17 ice cream (that's Rocky Road, if you don't already know), Peach ice cream...I could go on and on...they offer around 62 more mouth watering flavors to tempt you.

Marianne's Ice Cream
1020 Ocean St
Santa Cruz, CA
831-458-1447

33. The Sweet Potato. I love them! Sweet potato fries are one of the most delicious things on this earth and this chowder recipe is one I make again and again. Be careful with the chipotle chilies, adding 3 makes it really spicy!

Sweet Potato Chowder

From Real Simple

Preparation Time: 10 minutes minutes
Cooking Time: 15 minutes minutes

1/2 pound thick-sliced bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 sweet red pepper, diced
1/2 sweet green pepper, diced
1/2 large white onion, diced
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
3 13-ounce cans chicken broth
3 canned chipotle chilies, minced
2 14-ounce cans corn
1 cup low-fat milk
1/2 teaspoon salt

Cook the bacon in a large stockpot over medium heat until it begins to crisp. Spoon off the bacon fat, except for a thin coating. Add the peppers and onion to the bacon and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender.

Add the sweet potatoes, chicken broth, and chipotles and simmer, covered, 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Stir in the corn, milk, and salt; heat through.

Yield: 4 servings


34. La Table St Crescent in Narbonne, France. The restaurant is housed in a gorgeous, former 7th century Oratory on the outskirts of town. Their Saveur & Région menu offers four courses for 37 €, and for an additional 5 € it is offered with three glasses of wine to compliment the two savory and one cheese course. They offer three other menu's, ranging in price from 20 € for the menu du jour to 69 € for seven courses! They also offer à la carte. The food has always been excellent and the service impeccable. Their cheese cart alone, with around 25 offerings to choose from, is reason enough to eat here.

La Table Saint-Crescent
Route de Perpignan
11100 Narbonne
FRANCE
04.68.41.37.37


35. The Oxford Companion to Wine by Jancis Robinson. With over 4,000 entries, this tome is the only reference book on wine that you'll ever need. Includes information about varietals, regions, distillation, history, politics, etc.


36. Uwajimaya in Seattle, Washington. Uwajimaya is a spectacular Asian grocery store and market that is one of the largest in the area. It has more than doubled in size since I moved to Seattle in 1987 and in addition to the retail market, includes restaurants, a cooking school, a bank and a bookstore.

37. Kir Cardinal. A Kir is an apéritif made with a measure of crème de cassis, topped up with white wine. A Kir Cardinal is the same, only topped up with red wine.

38. Baked Brie with Honey and Pecans. Oozing and scrumptious! Serve with lots of French bread to scoop up the gooey cheese.

Baked Brie with Honey and Pecans

1 small brie (about 300 grams or 10 ounces)
a drizzle of olive oil
2 sprigs thyme, leaves stripped off
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup pecans, toasted and cut into large pieces

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.
Remove the brie from it's wrapping and put in an oven proof dish. Make a few cuts in the top, drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with thyme leaves. Cover with foil and bake for 10 minutes, or until gooey. Remove the foil and drizzle with the honey and sprinkle with the chopped pecans.
Serves 4 people.

39. Hansen's Sno-Blitz, New Orleans, Louisiana. In 1934 Mr. and Mrs. Hansen developed the Sno-Blitz sno-ball maker and the rest is history. A sno-ball is made with shaved ice, completely different from a snow cone, which is made with crushed ice. The finely shaved ice is layered in a cup with syrup, making a sweet and snow-like textured treat. After nearly 73 years of marriage the Hanson's passed away last year within seven months of each other. Their granddaughter is now keeping the sno-ball tradition alive.

40. Fraises des Bois. Intensely sweet and tiny wild strawberry.
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January 11, 2007

Top 100-21 Through 30

21. Barilla Whole Wheat Pasta. It took me a while get up the nerve to buy this but I'm glad I did. I wouldn't pair this pasta with just any sauce, but I thought it was excellent with a hearty, rustic, mushroom, ham and tomato sauce I made last week.

22. Wine Sediments Blog. A great collection of writing that keeps me informed with what's going on in the wine world.

23. La Vache à Carreaux wine bar in Avignon, France. Tucked back on a little street in the center of town, they serve an array of dishes made with cheese. The menu is written on a big chalkboard and the friendly wine guy suggests which wine to drink depending upon your order, there is no written wine list. The food was excellent and we really enjoyed the ambiance of this little place.

La Vache à Carreaux
14 rue Peyrollerie
84000 Avignon
FRANCE
+(33) 4 90 80 09 05

24. Tarte au Citron. This is a recipe I found years ago in a cookbook by Sheila Lukins, of the Silver Palate fame. I've had All Around the World Cookbook since 1994 and this tart was the first thing I cooked from it. It is a very tart tarte, the way a proper tarte au citron should be!

Tarte au Citron

For our tarte au citron, freeze or chill the pastry before baking it. This gives the gluten a chance to relax after you roll it out. And watch the lemon custard carefully as it cooks so that it doesn't curdle. Don't let it boil! To serve, carefully cut with a sharp knife, then remove slices to dessert plates with a pie server.Dough
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon salt

Filling:
2/3 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons heavy (whipping) cream
3 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks

1. Place the butter in a food processor and process a few seconds, until creamy. Add 1/4 cup sugar and process until the mixture is light and fluffy, about 20 seconds, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl once or twice. Add the vanilla. Combine the flour and salt, then add to the food processor. Process until the dough comes together around the sides of the bowl; scrape the sides of the bowl and process for a few seconds more.2. With lightly floured hands, press the dough evenly over the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Press around the bottom edge of the tart and make sure that the dough is not too thick.3. Trim any excess dough at the top of the tart pan with a knife. Lightly press the dough around the inside of the rim with your thumb so that it extends about 1/8 inch above the pan. Prick the bottom of the dough all over with a fork. Chill the dough in the freezer at least 30 minutes or overnight.4. Preheat the oven to 375°F.5. Bake the partially or fully frozen tart shell until fully baked and golden brown, about 25 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Leave the oven on.6. Whisk the remaining 1/2 cup sugar and the lemon juice together in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the heavy cream, then the eggs and the egg yolks. Combine thoroughly. Pour the mixture into a saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until the filling thickens and the whisk leaves a trail, about 4 minutes.7. Strain the filling into a bowl, then pour it into the baked tart shell. Bake for 4 minutes.8. Cool thoroughly on a rack and serve at room temperature. Before serving, carefully remove the sides and bottom of the pan and gently slide the tart onto a decorative plate.

25. Piment d'Espelette. A long, red pepper grown in the Basque region of France. After harvesting they are threaded in bunches onto heavy string and hung out on the sides of buildings to dry in the sun. They were granted Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) in 1999, giving them protection from imposters, the same way Champagne is protected. Ground up, they are delicious sprinkled on grilled meat or vegetables, eggs, etc.

26. Mirliton Festival in New Orleans. The mirliton, or chayote, a funny looking pear shaped vegetable belonging to the gourd family, is celebrated every year in the Bywater neighborhood at a festival featuring art, music and dishes made with the mirliton by local chefs. Takes place in November.

27. Maison Roullet-Fransac, makers of Cognac, Pineau des Charentes and liqueurs. We discovered them two years ago on a spring trip to explore the Poitou-Charentes region. Their charming tasting room is easily overlooked, as it is next door to the better known and much bigger Hennessy house. The staff was very friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic about their products. (I wrote about them in November)

28. Duralex Picardie Bistro Glass. Definitely a classic, the Picardie is suitable for cold drinks and hot beverages, stackable for convenient storage, chip resistant, and microwave and dishwasher-safe. Of course we don't have a dishwasher, so the chip resistant quality helps when they are accidentally dropped in our ceramic sink

29. Teuscher Champagne Truffles. Each little piece of heaven consists of a dark chocolate ganache center that is enriched by Dom Perignon Champagne and an outer layer of milk chocolate that is sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar. Did I mention they are heavenly?



30. Like Water for Chocolate by Laura Esquivel. A beautiful story that includes recipes and was also made into a fabulous film.
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January 10, 2007

Top 100 - 16 Through 20

16. Nketia Fla, a stew from Ghana. I ordered something similar to this in a restaurant several years ago and loved it but couldn't remember the name, so when I saw this recipe in Mark Bittman's Best Recipes in the World , I knew it had to be that dish. I've made it several times since and think it is delicious. When I make it, I add chopped potatoes and carrots during step 3 and baby peas at the end.

Nketia Fla (Ghana)
Groundnut (Peanut) Stew with Chicken
Makes 4 servings
Time about 1 1/2 hours largely unattended

2 tablespoons corn, grapeseed or other neutral oil
8 chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat
Salt and black pepper to taste
1 medium onion, chopped
One 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or more to taste
1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes (canned are fine)
1 quart chicken stock, preferably homemade
3/4 cup natural peanut butter, preferably chunky

1. Put the oil in a deep skillet over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, put chicken in the skillet, skin side down. Season with salt and pepper and brown well, rotating and turning them as necessary, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the meat to a plate and drain all but two tablespoons of the fat.
2. Add the onion and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in the cayenne and tomatoes and cook until the tomatoes have softened, about 5 minutes.
3. Return the chicken pieces to the casserole and add 3 1/2 cups of chicken stock. Bring to a boil then lower the heat and simmer until the chicken is cooked through and tender, 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Whisk or blend together the remaining chicken stock and the peanut butter; stir the mixture into the stew. Cook for another 20 minutes or so, then taste, adjust seasoning, and serve.

17. Trattoria Gigi in Lucca, Italy. The lunch menu changes daily and it was a 2 minute walk from our apartment, so we ate here three times in one week. Each time was spectacular! One day I ate homemade pappardelle with sautéed porcini mushroom sauce. Another day they served bucatini all'amatriciana, one of my favorites. We long to return.

Trattoria Gigi
Piazza del Carmine, 7
Lucca ITALY
0583.467266

18. Floc de Gascogne, Our friends brought us a bottle of this apéritif last summer from their trip to the Armagnac region of France. It is a mixture of fresh grape juice and Armagnac and is served chilled.

19. Dijon Mustard with Green Peppercorns. Perfect with grilled steak or roast duck.

20. Chef Donald Link. We were first introduced to his innovative yet simple food at Herbsaint, where he teamed with chef Susan Spicer to create one of our favorite restaurants in New Orleans. I was able to eat at his new restaurant, Cochon, while visiting New Orleans last June. If we still lived there it would be in our top five! Last year Link was nominated for "Best Chef-Southeast Region" by the James Beard Foundation, although the award went to John Besh of Restaurant August, another fabulous New Orleans restaurant that I had planned to add to this list.
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Top 100, Continued

6. The Green's Cookbook by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. This was given to me as a birthday gift 15 years ago, when I was a vegetarian. The recipes are so original and interesting that it continues to inspire me, even though I'm a meat eater again. This cookbook also offers good advice on wine pairing.

7. Bittersweet Bakery and Bistro in Spokane, Washington. I'm a bit biased on this one. It is owned by one of my dearest friends, Gina Garcia. I've never eaten here, as it opened after we moved to France, but I know her cooking from the bakery she had before it evolved into a Bistro and Bakery. She came to France to do training (and to visit us) before opening the Bistro and from what I've heard from friends and family, it is fabulous! The bakery still offers pastries and desserts and she has added savory crêpes and salads to the menu. There is a crêpe Loulou on the menu, named after your's truly!

Bittersweet Bakery and Bistro
1220 S. Grand Blvd.
Spokane, WA
(509) 455-8658

8. Emile Henry Loaf Pan Coated with a high resistant glaze, it goes from the fridge to the oven to the table and looks good too!

9. Harissa. A paste or sauce from Tunisia, but also used in Morocco and other parts of North Africa. It is made with chile's, garlic and spices and used to flavor couscous, tagines and soups.
Very spicy! A little goes a long way.

10. Homemade Apple Sauce. So much better than in the jar and ridiculously easy to make.
  • 2 pounds (1 kilo) cooking apples
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 1 tablespoon light brown sugar (or more depending on which apples you use)
  • 3 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Peel and core the apples and cut them into large chunks. Put the apples and the water into a heavy saucepan over medium heat and cover. When it starts to boil, turn the heat down to low, stir and cover. Cook about 30 minutes until soft but still in chunks. Stir in the sugar and lemon juice, cover and cook another 10 minutes to let the flavors blend. Enjoy!

11. Chef Ron Siegel. I was fortunate enough to train under this amazing chef. I continue to follow his career from his Iron Chef victory in 1999 to his current "Salt and Pepper Tasting Menu" offered at the Ritz Carlton in San Francisco, where he has been head chef since 2004. If you're ever in San Francisco, you must try his food, it is sublime.

12. al Mercat de la Boqueria in Barcelona. Also called Mercat Sant Josep, it occupies 6000 square meters in the middle of La Rambla, Barcelona's main thoroughfare and best known landmark. I love food markets and la Boqueria is one of the best. It is truly a feast for the senses! It is the oldest of it's kind in Europe and it has some of the most bizarre looking seafood and produce I've ever seen. Settle yourself in at one of the numerous tapas bars and soak up the atmosphere.

13. Hooked on Heat blog. Meena's blog is a great read and full of delicious recipes. What more could I ask for?

14. Savoy Cabbage. Very versatile, great flavor and beautiful to look at.

15. Cheese Primer by Steven Jenkins. A French proverb holds there is a different French cheese for every day of the year, and Charles de Gaulle once asked "how can you govern a country in which there are 246 kinds of cheese?" Currently, the French cheese count is over 400 varieties. We've tried maybe 60 of them and the Cheese Primer has been indispensable when buying cheeses at the market. It also covers Spain, Italy, Switzerland, the British Isles, the U.S. and several other countries.
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January 9, 2007

Tomorrow

Didn't manage to add to my list today. More will be added tomorrow! Pin It

January 8, 2007

Chez Loulou's Top 100 List

Saveur Magazine releases a Top 100 list every year in their January issue. I've decided to make a list of my own.
I'm not going to do write the entire list in one post, but will add at least 10 a day for the next week or so. I'm starting with only 5 tonight because I need to get off the computer and go make some dinner!

1. Fran's Chocolate GoldBar. A Seattle based chocolate maker.

2. Muscat St. Jean de Minervois. Can be served as an aperitif wine, is a perfect accompaniment for foie gras or as a dessert wine.

3. Crystal Hot Sauce. A favorite since 1923. Their plant was destroyed in hurricane Katrina but they plan to open another, although not in New Orleans.

4. Manny & Isa's Kitchen, Islamorada, Florida. Haven't eaten there in a few years, but I still can taste their amazing Shrimp Enchilado.

Manny & Isa's Kitchen
US Highway 1
Islamorada, FL
(305) 664-5019

5. OXO's Good Grip Citrus Zester. Every kitchen needs one.

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New Year's Miracle

The secretary at the mairie called this morning.

My carte de séjour finally arrived!

This is a very good beginning to 2007. Pin It

January 6, 2007

Pulling Mussels (From the Shell)

Lunch at Gruissan Port

Went off to the seaside today to enjoy a beautiful, sunny day. It was almost 70 degrees in the sun so we soaked up as much as possible!
Ate steamed mussels with fries (moules frites) and enjoyed some Picpoul de Pinet wine.



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January 4, 2007

Peas, Ricotta and Bacon with Orecchiette

In general, I'm the kind of cook who appreciates simplicity.
I don't find architectural stacks of food on my plate interesting and I don't get excited about eating sugar orbs filled with sesame oil or cuttlefish ravioli filled with rabbit brain espuma.

Occasionally I'll wake up in the mood to spend the morning in the kitchen cooking coq au vin or boeuf bourguignon or a slow simmering bolognese sauce which needs several hours to mellow and meld it's flavors together. It is a perfect, lazy Sunday with Pink Martini playing in the background activity. And then I like to freeze it in several containers so I have it available to make a delicious, impromptu lunch or dinner.
Most days, however, it is nice to have some recipes on hand that don't take hours and hours. I love a good pasta sauce that can be made in the time it takes the water to boil and the noodles to cook. This frees up time to make a salad or yummy dessert when you want to invite friends or family over for dinner. And I've never met anyone who doesn't like pasta.
I recently discovered something amusing about our French friends, a couple for whom I've always made the most spectacular of dishes from my repertoire because they always do the same for us when we're at their house...they prefer Italian food to any other! And here I've been for the last four years, trying to serve them interesting, American dishes (no, that isn't a contradiction of terms) that they have never tried before and all this time they just wanted some good, Italian food!

Here's something simple I made the other night.

8 ounces frozen baby peas, thawed
1/3 pound slab bacon, cut into lardons
1/3 pound fresh ricotta
1 tablespoon butter
1/3 cup freshly grated parmesan
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 pound orecciette (medium sized shells will also work, but you want a shape that will hold the sauce and the peas)

Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook the pasta.
While it is cooking, heat the bacon over medium heat until lightly browned. Pour off most of the bacon fat, leaving a couple of tablespoons in the pan. Add the thawed peas and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring to coat with the bacon drippings.
Mix the ricotta and butter together in the bowl you'll serve the pasta in.
Drain the pasta, reserving about 1/2 cup of cooking water and add it to the ricotta and butter and toss it all together quickly. Pour in the bacon and peas, mix again then add the parmesan and pepper and mix again. If it seems too dry, you can drizzle a little of the reserved pasta water to get the sauce to the consistency of your liking.
Serve with more grated parmesan at the table.
Serves 4 Pin It

January 3, 2007

Chicken & Dumplings

I bought a whole chicken the other day and I was bored with roasted chicken and I hate cutting up a whole chicken, so I decided some sort of stew would save me from the dreaded task. I pulled a Louisiana cookbook off the shelf for inspiration and ended up making an old standby, chicken & dumplings.


This recipe from a good cookbook called Louisiana Real and Rustic, written in 1996 by Emeril Lagasse, before he became so overexposed you couldn't stand to look at him.

Chicken and Broth
1 large fryer (about 3 1/2 lbs)
2 cups coarsely chopped onions
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped celery
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped carrots
8 garlic cloves
3 bay leaves
4 quarts water
1 tablespoon salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

Baking Powder Dumplings
1 egg
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoons baking powder
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 1/4 cups flour
1 cup reserved vegetables
3 tablespoons cornstarch
3/4 cup milk

Put the chicken, onions, celery, carrots, garlic and bay leaves in a large kettle. Cover with water. Add the salt, black pepper, cayenne and thyme and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for about 2 hours, or until the chicken is very tender. Remove from the heat.
Remove the chicken from the pot. With a slotted spoon, remove 1 cup of the vegetables from the pot. Set aside. When the chicken has cooled, skin and debone it. Set aside.
Beat together the egg and milk in a mixing bowl. Add the salt, pepper, baking powder and parsley. Mix well. Add the flour and mix to make a thick batter. Fold the reserved vegetables into the batter. Set aside.
Remove any fat that has risen to the surface of the broth. Return the chicken meat to the pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Dissolve the cornstarch in the milk and add to the pot. Stir and bring back to a boil. Reduce heat to medium.
Drop heaping tablespoons of the dumpling batter into the hot mixture, distributing the dumplings evenly, until all is used. When the dumplings rise to the surface, simmer and cook for 4 minutes, stirring gently, being careful not to break up the dumplings.
Remove the bay leaves and serve immediately in soup bowls.
Makes 8 servings.

note: I used fresh thyme because I didn't have any dried. I sometimes add baby peas at the end.
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