August in Paris

August means stretches of long, hot days with bright skies, followed by days of heavy air and storms. We're finally at the end of a week-long heatwave and the last two evenings have given us spectacular sound and light shows over the city. 

Tuesday afternoon a photographer captured some incredible photos of lightning striking the Eiffel Tower. I wish I had witnessed that!

Our neighborhood, le 15ème, is mainly residential and always very quiet this time of year, as most of our neighbors have left for the month and the little mom-and-pop places have closed for their annual vacation.

I've ventured into the center of Paris a couple of times, near Notre-Dame and parts of Saint Germain, and both neighborhoods were devoid of the crush of tourists that this month usually sees. It's nice for those of us who have stayed in town, yet it does feel strangely deserted this summer.

Friends have told me how nice the museums are without the crowds, so I plan to take advantage of this peaceful time and go back to the Louvre, the Rodin Museum and possibly the Picasso Museum. 

Other than that, we're still mostly staying home.

 

Several of our friends tested positive for COVID-19, a couple of whom were hospitalized for over a month, which was very scary. Everyone has now recovered, thank heavens! I was quite sick in mid-March and found out in May that I also had the virus. Unfortunately that doesn't mean I can't get it again, so we continue to be extra careful. 

If you're on holiday, I hope you're having a wonderful time. If you're somewhere that has gone back into quarantine, I am thinking of you and hoping that it ends soon. 

Please wear your masks and stay safe, everyone!

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This and That

Hello? Is there anybody out there?
I know it's been ages, so I decided it was time for a quick catch up. The last couple of months have presented us with a few ups and downs, and I haven't been writing much, but I wanted to share some of what's been going on around here, what a few friends have been up to, some interesting links, and what I've been listening to, eating and reading.

January started off with a quiet NYE at home with a friend visiting from the US, followed by a sunny, delicious, carb-filled, 48 hour trip to Rome (which thankfully renewed my faith in that crazy city!). December and January were full of doctor's appointments to prepare my husband for hip replacement surgery. I'm going to say it again...the healthcare in France is incredible! He's now working with a physical therapist and will be ditching his crutches soon. Unfortunately I wasn't able to make my annual trek to New Orleans for Mardi Gras in February, which totally bummed me out (first world problems, I know), but being here and experiencing Paris blanketed in a layer of snow, which just happened to coincide with my birthday, was a rare treat.

And now it's March already!



I spent several days this week at the annual Salon de l'Agriculture and the biennial Salon du Fromage (which is open only to professionals). Luckily the place is enormous, so I was able to walk enough to burn off all the cheese, charcuterie, crêpes, bread and wine I enjoyed over the week. Every year I look forward to seeing the animals and spending time meeting and chatting with the small producers in the regional products pavilion. This year I brought home some incredible, grassy olive oil from Provence, a few bottles of wine and a nice wedge of tomme de vache from the Lozère.

Cheese is my thing and I never want to stop expanding my knowledge on the subject. Two recent additions to my ever expanding cheese library include The Oxford Companion to Cheese and The Book of Cheese - The Essential Guide to Discovering Cheeses You'll Love by Liz Thorpe. Lot's to keep my mind busy between these books!

In addition to the cheese reads, friends are keeping my nightstand stocked with great books. David Lebovitz's honest and entertaining story of home renovation in Paris, l'Appart, is currently available in both hardcover and Kindle versions, and Ann Mah has a novel being published this summer, The Lost Vintage, about wine, war and family secrets. And I know what gift I'll be giving to all of my food loving friends with kids this Christmas. Mardi Michels of eat.live.travel.write has a cookbook coming out this summer called In The French Kitchen With Kids that shares some easy and fun ways to get your kids cooking with you in the kitchen.

Forest Collins, who writes the definitive guide about cocktails and the cocktail culture in Paris on her website, 52 Martinis, and who taught me just how incredible gin can be (thank you, Forest!), launched an app last autumn called Paris Cocktails. Check it out! Download it! It's free...for now.

Winter can be dark, drizzly and bone-chillingly cold in Paris and it's far too easy to indulge in chocolat chaud and heavy comfort food. Chocolate & Zucchini is one of my go-to websites for healthy, seasonal recipes and batch cooking meal plans.

I don't listen to too many podcasts, but am currently loving the Paris based Earful Tower. You can imagine how thrilled I was when host, Oliver Gee, invited me into the studio a couple of months ago to talk about French cheese, my favorite subject!
52 Martinis also has a podcast dedicated to all things cocktail related, on which I was a recent guest to discuss New Orleans, Mardi Gras and of course, cocktails.



I'm intrigued by Micronutris, a company based in the south of France that offers an array of edible insects. I spotted their display in a small grocery store in Olonzac while we were at our house in Occitanie in November. On their website they advertise with slogans like, "Unwind with thyme flavored insects and a glass of crisp Chardonnay." and "Throw a handful of insects on the salad, pick up your picnic basket and put your sunglasses on" (these sales pitches definitely sound better in French than they do translated into English!). I think this is a great idea and had the chance to taste their products at le Salon de l'Agriculture this week. I especially liked the little cookies made with meal worm flour.



One of my favorite casual eating and drinking spots in Paris' 11ème, Martin, now has a little brother, Robert Restaurant. I've yet to get over there, but with chef Peter Orr in the kitchen, it is bound to be fabulous.

I started doing yoga again after a 15 year hiatus and it has been amazing! I feel so much more flexible and calm, and who knew that core muscles were so important (or can hurt so much after years of being neglected!). If you're in Paris, or visiting Paris, Affordable Yoga offers classes all over town at both drop in and package rates.

Unfortunately I have some sad news to share as well; our little Domino suffered a heart attack and passed away while we were down south in November. The vet thinks he had an aggressive tumor growing in one of his lungs. His sudden death has truly left an empty place in our hearts and in our home and we will eventually adopt another cat, but currently have our hands full with the care of our 17 year old chihuahua.
We miss you, Domino!



So as not to end on a such a sad note, here are some stories I read this morning of people who have restored my faith in humanity. It was a nice way to start the day.



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5 Things

1) When you have a stressful afternoon at the doctor’s office and walk outside, turn the corner and see this. And you can't help but smile.

2)  Paris offers endless opportunity to sit down, slow down, and watch the world go by




3) Beautiful, aged mimolette

4) Yes, it smelled incredible

5) Chocolate, as far as the eye can see




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A Terrace In Paris

We love our big terrace with its views over the 15ème and feel very lucky to have a few square meters of outdoor space to enjoy. We know that this is a rare thing in Paris.
And as an added bonus, we have a view of the Eiffel Tower.

Funnily though, we've had friends tell us that our view of the Iron Lady just isn't that great.

"Well, you can only see the top of it." 
"If you could just tear down that white building, your view would be better."

Yeah, we know, of course it could be better.
But...really?




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5 Things

1) This is December




2) Choices, choices




3) New view




4) Stacked

5) Friends, fizz and latkes





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Au Revoir, Normandy

As my husband said the other day, "here we go again, off on another adventure."
It's a big one this time. We're moving to Paris.

Enfin bref, we're moving on and leaving Normandy. Which is incredibly bittersweet.

As much as we're excited to head to the city, our hearts are still heavy. Normandy is such a gorgeous, friendly place, and we love our little house here, so we are truly sad to be leaving.

But after commuting to Paris for the last year and a half, relying on the kindness of friends who let me crash on their couches or in a spare room for a night or two, then staying at a friend's place for several months last autumn and finally renting a room in a shared apartment last winter, I am over it.
Actually, we're both over it.

Being away from home - away from my husband, our dog and our cat - has proven to be more difficult than I ever imagined.
And let me tell you, having roommates at my age is kind of weird.

I am so happy that it's finally over!

Lists are being made and our belongings are being sorted. The chaos of moving will wind up in mid October, when we settle into our new place in the 15ème arrondissement.



Until then, we'll enjoy the beach and all the Camembert, Calvados, teurgoule and cream that we possibly can.
Damn, I'm going to miss the cows!



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5 Things

1) Smoked garlic




2) I always miss the beauty of the Minervois this time of year

3) Gym? Who needs a gym?

4) Sweet autumn treats

5) The joys of being une flâneuse



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Floating Over Paris

Our original plan was to bundle up against the cold and take an evening walk up the Champs-Élysées to get some photos of the festive holiday lights and to check out the Christmas Village that sets up on the lower half of the Avenue every year.

Then margaritas got involved.
And before I knew it, there was talk of getting on this Ferris Wheel.

As much as I resisted, it seems that my friend, combined with a margarita or two, are more persuasive than I realized.

I'm afraid of heights, but as soon as we were locked into our little carriage and started moving smoothly up into the sky, it just wasn't as scary as I thought it would be. The Wheel stopped while we were at the very top, giving us time to appreciate the glittering lights and beautiful night views.

She got me to step out of my comfort zone. Thankfully.
Without her, I would never have had the chance to float over Paris.

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Photo du Jour - Sun Setting On The Seine

Out for a late afternoon walk on a cold December day.


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Photo du Jour - Ghostlike

 A ghostlike shadow appears through la grisaille.


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On the 6

The Paris Metro line #6 offers spectacular views of la Tour Eiffel.

I took this route every day for a week when I was in Paris earlier this month.  As soon as the train came above ground to cross a bridge over the Seine and this iconic monument came into view, almost every head turned to catch a glimpse.
I saw many smiles on the 6. Pin It

Photo du Jour - Quelle Vue!

It doesn't get much better than this.

Putting your feet up while you sip on a refreshing, cool glass of white Burgundy and dive into a fantastic book while the sun sets over Paris on another warm and sunny day.
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Photo du Jour - So Cheesy!

Some clever cheese maker has started producing goat's cheese in the shape of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe.

Who said that the French weren't entrepreneurial?


Taken at:
Fromagerie Cler
31 rue Cler
75007 Paris Pin It

Photo du Jour

Memories of my trip to Paris in April with my sister.
I yearn to go again.
Someday.... Pin It