January 30, 2011

A Hopeful Week in Paris - Part 2

Fromagerie Laurent Dubois

Have you ever had what seems like a golden opportunity literally fall into your lap?
Then in the end, for one reason or another, you have to say 'no thanks' and walk away from that opportunity?

Well, if you haven't, I can tell you that it kind of sucks.


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January 28, 2011

La Fête du Fromage - Le Chartreux

Le Chartruex

This cheese is, in a word, approachable.

It doesn't attempt to woo you with unusual rind washes or coatings.
It isn't showy and it doesn't have any distracting bells or whistles. 

Le Chartreux is quite simply, pure eating enjoyment.

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January 27, 2011

Photo du Jour - So Many Choices

Bio Wine Fair

An organic wine fair, the 18th annual Millésime Bio, kicked off In Montpellier on Monday, offering an impressive selection of wines from 12 different countries. I spotted producers from France (of course!), Spain, Egypt, Italy, Hungary, Austria, the US, Germany and Greece.
While making the rounds, the things that impressed me the most were the passion and the knowledge of the producers and the sophistication of their wines.

Of course we didn't have a chance to taste them all in just one day, so here are a few of the highlights: 
Erbaceo white wine and Selvato red from Puglia
The wines of Domaine Allegria and Château Pech Redon from the Languedoc-Roussillon
The Rieslings from the Domaine Bernhard Reibel in Alsace
A Saumur Blanc from the Domaine du Pas Saint Martin in the Loire Pin It

January 25, 2011

The Numbers

5bis

1427 - Number of posts on Chez Loulou
22 - Number of half written posts
3 - Number of half written books
191 - Number of French cheeses tasted
? - Number of French wines tasted
0 - Number of brains, kidneys or pieds de cochon eaten
1839 - Number (approximate) of baguettes eaten
19 - Number of emails received that start with "Dear Chez"
100+ - Number of emails received asking for help with moving to France
14 - Number of friends made through blogging
1- Number of stalkers
7992 - Number of Tweets 
7.8 - Number of years lived in France
8.8 - Number of years dealing with French bureaucracy
6726 - Number of photos in my Flickr account 
5 - Number of years spent writing Chez Loulou Pin It

January 22, 2011

Photo du Jour - Kaleidescope of Color

A Riot of Color

A colorful little corner of Béziers, made brighter by a jumble of drying laundry. Pin It

January 20, 2011

Notes To Self

Olonzac Market Day

The expression "I almost had to give up my firstborn child" does not translate into French. Use it and they'll think you're certifiable.

Your neighbors and your hairdresser will never stop commenting on your weight gain or loss.

There's a reason behind la priorité à droite. You will just never understand it.

The type of bra you prefer is a balconnet, not a banquette*.

As soon as they learn that you're American, they'll assume that you're rolling in dough. The expression "rolling in dough" doesn't translate either.

Stop trying to order your steak à point*. It will always arrive bleu*, no matter what.

That sweet looking, little old lady standing uncomfortably close to you in line at the boulangerie is trying to cut in front of you. Stand your ground.

It is de l'eau* or un verre d'eau*. Get that through your head already.

The day that you're running late for an appointment in town is the day that all the streets on your route will be shut down for a manifestation.

You will never be able to pronounce the words grenouille* or moelleux*. Stop embarrassing yourself by trying to.

You will continue to have those incredible "oh my god I live in France" moments. Savor them.

As soon as you get comfortable and think you've got this whole living in France thing all figured out, remember that you really haven't.
And remember to breathe.



*banquette - seat
*à point - medium
*bleu - rare
*de l'eau - some water
*un verre d'eau - a glass of water
*grenouille - frog
*moelleux - soft or mellow Pin It

January 18, 2011

Photo du Jour - Urban Decay

Béziers


This old building's worn exterior and peeling paint reminds me of the historic stucco buildings in New Orleans.

Taken in Béziers. Pin It

January 16, 2011

La Fête du Fromage - Le Saint-Domnin de Provence

Saint-Dominen de Provence

Why I love French cheese reason #191; le Saint-Domnin de Provence.
A cheese so divine that it deserves to be named after a saint.

Imagine a cheese that is lusciously creamy and meltingly soft on your tongue. It tastes slightly bitter and peppery with hints of tangy citrus and mild mushroom that linger on and on. All these flavors are then rounded out by the intriguing, almost imperceptible but not quite, essence of lavender.

I wish I could describe it more adequately.
Instead I'll just insist that you come to France and try it for yourself, because I don't think they export this heavenly little fromage.


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January 14, 2011

Photo du Jour - Minervois Morning

January 005

A very atmospheric morning. Pin It

January 12, 2011

Photo du Jour - Paris Mosaic

Horse Butcher

This old mosaic in the Marais reminded me of the boucheries chevalines that you see in France.

Eating horse meat is just something I can't and won't do.  
Yes, it's a cultural thing and no, I'm not opposed to it.  And no, I'm not a vegetarian either.  Far from it. 
It's just that the idea of it makes me uncomfortable.

What do you think?  Do you or would you eat horse meat? Pin It

January 10, 2011

L'Heure de l'Apéro

Un p'tit verre

Rosé and Mona Lisa

French Riviera

L'heure de l'apéro (the French version of the cocktail hour) is a local tradition that we have happily embraced.  It's an invitation to sit down, relax and whet our appetites before the focal point of the evening; dinner.

Our evening apéro gets under way around 7-7:30 and normally lasts about an hour.  I have a glass of white or rosé wine, or sometimes a kir, and my husband either has a mixed drink or a glass of wine. 
Little bowls of pretzels or olives are served to take the edge off, and when we have friends over we serve something a little more substantial, such as little slices of saucisson, a chunk of pâté and another dish or two.

Santé!

Champagne and Pomegranate Liqueur in the Sun

Paris

Kir

Sangria

apéro time

wine bar

Glass of Wine
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January 8, 2011

Through My Lens

Marseille Colors

Along the Canal du Midi

I try to take pictures every day so I always carry my camera with me. 
Believe me, I am no professional.  But I know that I like to have it around when something captures my attention.

I'm attracted to painted shutters and doors, watching the vineyards change through the seasons, vivid colors, city street scenes, reflections on water, French cafés and outdoor markets, rusty metal and simplicity.

My camera is a Panasonic DMC-TZ5.  It's a compact and versatile point and shoot.

Meow!

Cognac Cheese Platter


Paris Café Corner

France

january evening shadows

memorial

Toulouse Café Lights

Faded Green


More photos on my Flickr page. Pin It

January 6, 2011

La Fête du Fromage - Le Galletout

Saumur Fromager

My endless pursuit to taste every French cheese means that any time we take a trip in France, some of our holiday time must be devoted to tracking down a Fromagerie or two.  Or three.
I have a very patient husband.

Before each trip I try to do some research online, but it really is surprising how many cheese shops and cheese makers either don't have websites of their own or attempt to include up to date information, like opening days and times, on public websites run by the local Mairie.
So most of the time I just ask for recommendations from the locals.

During our morning of wine tasting at le Tasting Room in the Loire last October, the owner, Cathy, mentioned her favorite little Fromagerie in Saumur.  She couldn't remember the name or the address, but described where it was in relation to a couple of the well known landmarks in town.  I finally found the charming little shop, tucked back on a little lane between the river and la Place Saint-Pierre.

Being that we were in the Loire Valley, home to many famous fromages de chèvre, I expected a decent selection of goat's cheeses.

I was not disappointed.

Chèvre

Galletout

Le Galletout was the first one that caught my eye.
It looked so intriguing; like a crumpled, pale mushroom cap or cloud of meringue.  I always seem to be attracted to unconventional looking cheeses.

Its flavor is sublime!  Cutting through the thin, bloomy rind reveals a dripping, oozing, velvety textured pâte that tastes like a goat's cheese, but not an overly strong, goaty one.  The perfectly balanced flavors are slightly tangy, with hints of soft citrus and milk. 

Le Galletout is an unpasteurized chèvre produced in the Lot, in southwestern France.  It can be eaten young and mild, after only two weeks of affinage, or it can be aged a little bit longer if a stronger flavor is preferred.

Pair with a Pouilly Fumé. Pin It

January 4, 2011

Photo du Jour - Fromagerie

Fromagerie du Puits Neuf

A little gem in the center of Saumur, la Fromagerie du Puits Neuf.
  Pin It

January 2, 2011

A New Year

2 janvier 2011

It has been quite a year!

Though I could probably say that about every year.
Living in France always keeps life interesting and it continues to amaze me that even after almost 8 years here, we still have so much to learn. (like how damn difficult it is to rent an apartment in Paris!)

We celebrated the arrival of 2011 with good friends, the requisite glass of Champagne, a leisurely dinner and a decadent chocolate and raspberry cake.  A wonderful ending and an even better beginning.

Bonne Année! Pin It