Train travel spoils you. No need to get to the airport 2+ hours before your flight, no waiting in long security lines, no strict weight and size limits on your luggage. You arrive a bit before your train is scheduled to depart, stow your bags, find your seat and away you go!
Living in Paris spoils you too. You quickly learn that much of France and many parts of Europe are just a few hours from the city. (and escaping from time to time is good for le moral)
Feel like going to Amsterdam? No problem! Jump on a train and you'll be there in just over 3 hours. Want to taste some wine in Bordeaux? It's only 2½ hours away. Craving some bouillabaisse and time on the beach? You can be sitting in the sun in Marseille in a little over 3 hours.
And of course there's Lyon, a city that is considered paradise for the French food lover and a place that had both intrigued me and been recommended to me by several friends over the years. So last summer I hopped on the TGV and just 2 hours later was climbing up a steep flight of stairs in La Croix-Rousse neighborhood to meet up with old friends.
Lucy, a brilliant cook and owner of the cooking school, Plum Lyon, who I met in Gascony at Camp Cassoulet almost a decade ago, and Mardi, the writer of the fabulous food blog, eat. live. travel. write, who I met in Paris several years ago, were waiting at Lucy's house to welcome me. The first thing we did after I dropped off my bag was head to the covered food market, Les Halles de Lyon.
I instantly fell in love with this place, for the cheese alone! The quality of the food on offer was superb and the people working at the market were genuine and helpful. There was no snobbery here, just people selling products that they believed in and wanted to share with us. I noticed the same thing at the restaurants where we ate. The chefs were proud of their dishes, but they didn't do a great job for the recognition, they cooked amazing food because they are chefs, and that's what chefs do. The lack of pretension was so refreshing.
It was a whirlwind trip, and with Lucy and her family's help, we packed a lot of delicious food, cheese, wine, walking and laughter into 36 hours. But that's all the time it took to convince me; if you love French food, you can believe what they say about Lyon.
It is paradise!
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13 comments:
My husband & I are starting our planning for a European trip. We plan to fly into Paris, stay a bit and then enjoy life on the canal. What is the best time of year to visit Paris? I am not fond of big crowds when you can not enjoy all the city has to offer without many frustrations.
I know your posts will be invaluable as we plan our itinerary.
Hi Anon
If you don't like crowds in Paris, then you should avoid mid to late spring, all of summer, the early autumn and December. But definitely avoid May-September. Paris is the most visited city in the world, so it can be difficult to avoid the crowds.
Come in either November, January or February. However, it will be cold and most likely rainy. When you say you want to "enjoy life on the canal," I envision you might want some nice weather, so I'm not sure those months would be the best times for that part of your trip.
Hope that helps and happy trip planning!
Hi Jennifer,
Lovely post thank you. Tomorrow we are heading to Lyon to visit an Aunt. Of course living an hour away makes the car ride much easier.
I have enjoyed your posts over the years and really enjoyed this one as we also have spent hours at Les Halles Bocuse.
Enjoy
What a lovely trip down memory lane! My visit to Lyon was the start of something wonderful (cookbook shoot) and I am forever in your debt for that evening eating all that cheese and helping me narrow down my recipe list XO I'll always remember that trip with such fondness!
Oh my! Not only did you have me drooling over your food pics, but just the thought of Lyon being easily accessible from Paris by train makes me want to hop on a plane right now!!!
I swear some of these photos were scented..Lyon in 28 days for me. What a timely article.Merci David
That all looks delicious!
Lovely photos. My husband and I love Lyon, but have never managed to find les Halles...
A quick reply too, to Anon above - we visited Paris in August and loved it. This seems to be the month that the Parisians leave, plus there is no cost to park your car in the street and the weather is good. Just a thought.
PS I have found my way to your blog through Mardi's at Eat.Live.Travel.Write. Looking forward to a browse.
Hi Jenn! Awesome - come on down again! I would love to see you again, the sooner the better!
Bill
You are fortunate to live so close to Lyon! Have a lovely weekend and thank you for reading and commenting. :)
Mardi
I'll always remember it too and so loved sharing that time with you. I'm excited to see the results of all your hard work and hope we are able to get together in Lyon again. But I am absolutely going to have to plan a trip to Nérac to see you. Sorry it didn't work out this summer! xx
Lori
I hope you're able to get to Lyon, as well as Paris, and soon! :)
David
You could smell that cheese, couldn't you? ;) Have a wonderful time in Lyon and try to visit this market. I don't think you'll be disappointed!
Marina
It ALL is! If you ever have the chance, you should go!
Catherine
If you ever go back, you should try to find it. It's fantastic!
I somewhat agree about August...the Parisians are gone and the metro, streets and restaurants (that are open) are quiet, but the major museums and attractions are still crowded with tourists. And you're right, the weather is usually good!
Thanks for stopping by to comment! :)
Lucy - I will my dear! xx
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