Slowly but surely the vineyards here in the Minervois are being ripped up and planted with olive trees, fields of asparagus and even hay.
June 29, 2009
Photo du Jour - Fields of Gold
Slowly but surely the vineyards here in the Minervois are being ripped up and planted with olive trees, fields of asparagus and even hay.
June 28, 2009
Dear Bucharest
Belle Epoque beauty
Dear Bucharest,
I wanted to like you. Really, I did.
I was excited to experience all that you had to offer and arrived with an open mind and a sense of adventure.
My disappointment isn't your fault. I can see that you are being mistreated. Your faded, crumbling beauty is still evident, despite the neglect. I loved your friendly citizens, gorgeous Belle Epoque architecture and beautiful churches.
You have such potential!
There were moments when I could see past the decay and ignore the atmosphere of organized crime that seemed to permeate everything. But they were brief moments.
I know that there are people who care for you and are proud of you. I hope that one day they will lovingly restore you to your former glory. You deserve to be cherished and looked after.
Unfortunately I won't be visiting again any time soon.
You and I just didn't "click."
However, I wish you all the best in the future.
Kind Regards,
Jennifer
Bucharest Old Town - apparently the road works will continue for years
Stavropoleos Church - interior, gardens and restoration still going on
June 27, 2009
June 26, 2009
June 24, 2009
La Fête du Fromage - Brugère
The most delicious cheese that my sister and I tasted during our visit to Paris was Brugère, a wonderful, delicate, unpasteurized chèvre from the mountainous Cantal region of south central France.
Coincidentally, our apartment in Montmartre was located just around the corner from not just one, but two Fromageries.
One of them was a disappointment. La petite vendeuse was totally clueless about cheese! When I posed some questions about a couple that I was interested in, she didn't know where they were produced or if they were lait cru, lait thermisé or lait pasteurisé, nor did she care to.
I didn't linger around to waste her precious time.
Luckily la Fromagerie Lepic was only a few doors away and they were very knowledgeable. And happy that I was interested in their cheese. Had I been on my own, I could have spent many happy hours in this little place.
My sister does love cheese, but would much rather be noshing on some Spanish or French dry-cured ham or eating gelato, so I tried not to bore her by dragging her into too many Fromageries.
We both swooned over this one!
Brugère has a fine, silky texture and is matured to the point of being chewy and chalky, qualities that I love in goat cheese. It has strong milk and fresh grass flavors and a sweet aroma of green pastures. My sister and I both agree that this is one to remember.
Its soft flavor would pair well with either a Pinot Gris or a Pinot Noir.
Fromagerie Lepic
20, rue Lepic
75018 PARIS
Coincidentally, our apartment in Montmartre was located just around the corner from not just one, but two Fromageries.
One of them was a disappointment. La petite vendeuse was totally clueless about cheese! When I posed some questions about a couple that I was interested in, she didn't know where they were produced or if they were lait cru, lait thermisé or lait pasteurisé, nor did she care to.
I didn't linger around to waste her precious time.
Luckily la Fromagerie Lepic was only a few doors away and they were very knowledgeable. And happy that I was interested in their cheese. Had I been on my own, I could have spent many happy hours in this little place.
My sister does love cheese, but would much rather be noshing on some Spanish or French dry-cured ham or eating gelato, so I tried not to bore her by dragging her into too many Fromageries.
We both swooned over this one!
Brugère has a fine, silky texture and is matured to the point of being chewy and chalky, qualities that I love in goat cheese. It has strong milk and fresh grass flavors and a sweet aroma of green pastures. My sister and I both agree that this is one to remember.
Its soft flavor would pair well with either a Pinot Gris or a Pinot Noir.
Fromagerie Lepic
20, rue Lepic
75018 PARIS
June 23, 2009
June 22, 2009
Zagreb
Driving into the city from the airport, the cab driver pointed out the rows of imposing, bleak apartment buildings, telling us that this was the new part of Zagreb that was built up during the Communist years. Crossing over the Sava River, he explained that we were now in old Zagreb.
We looked at each other, a bit worried, because old Zagreb looked exactly like the row after row of depressing apartments blocks that we had just driven past in new Zagreb.
I think he spoke a bit too soon.
Zagreb's center, what I would call old Zagreb, is nothing like the newer area south of the river. It is charming, friendly and bustling.
Acres of beautiful, peaceful parks are scattered throughout the city, lively pedestrian streets offer mile after mile of cafés and shops, several outdoor and covered food markets open up every morning to tempt you with seasonal fruit, vegetables, homemade bread and cheeses, and there are gelaterias everywhere.
And the coffee! Very strong and smooth, just like in Italy. I couldn't get enough of it.
Homemade cheese at an outdoor market
Getting around on the modern Tram system is incredibly easy. And it's FREE
Tried a couple glasses of local wine and it wasn't to my liking, but the local beer was very tasty
My traveling companions
Our five days in Zagreb were maybe one day too many, but this is a fantastic city that shouldn't be overlooked. The café culture and gelato alone were enough to make me quite happy!
On our way to the airport to catch our flight to Bucharest, the cab driver was pleased to hear that we had enjoyed his city so much. He also wanted to know, as did everyone we had talked to, exactly why in the heck we would bother going to Bucharest?
His question proved prophetic...
We looked at each other, a bit worried, because old Zagreb looked exactly like the row after row of depressing apartments blocks that we had just driven past in new Zagreb.
I think he spoke a bit too soon.
Zagreb's center, what I would call old Zagreb, is nothing like the newer area south of the river. It is charming, friendly and bustling.
Acres of beautiful, peaceful parks are scattered throughout the city, lively pedestrian streets offer mile after mile of cafés and shops, several outdoor and covered food markets open up every morning to tempt you with seasonal fruit, vegetables, homemade bread and cheeses, and there are gelaterias everywhere.
And the coffee! Very strong and smooth, just like in Italy. I couldn't get enough of it.
Homemade cheese at an outdoor marketGetting around on the modern Tram system is incredibly easy. And it's FREETried a couple glasses of local wine and it wasn't to my liking, but the local beer was very tastyMy traveling companionsOur five days in Zagreb were maybe one day too many, but this is a fantastic city that shouldn't be overlooked. The café culture and gelato alone were enough to make me quite happy!
On our way to the airport to catch our flight to Bucharest, the cab driver was pleased to hear that we had enjoyed his city so much. He also wanted to know, as did everyone we had talked to, exactly why in the heck we would bother going to Bucharest?
His question proved prophetic...
June 21, 2009
Sunday Reading
These are some adorable and very photogenic chicks!
Una ricetta buona et facile.
Some curiosities from Provence.
Gearing up for zucchini season. This is one of my favorite ways to use them up.
Beautiful inspiration.
The fortified medieval town of Sighişoara was one of the highlights of our trip to Transylvania.
Una ricetta buona et facile.
Some curiosities from Provence.
Gearing up for zucchini season. This is one of my favorite ways to use them up.
Beautiful inspiration.
The fortified medieval town of Sighişoara was one of the highlights of our trip to Transylvania.
June 20, 2009
June 18, 2009
Photo du Jour - Parisian Music
My sister and I were enchanted by this very talented group of classical string musicians that we stumbled across on our way to the gardens at the Palais-Royal in Paris.
June 17, 2009
La Fête du Fromage - Crémeux du Puy
Paris, in my humble opinion, is one of the most sublime cities in the world.
And the icing on the already delicious gâteau that is Paris is the sheer number of Fromageries that seem to appear around every corner.
My sister and I wandered into Fromagerie 31 after a delicious, al fresco lunch at da Rosa's and a cone of amazing Bacio gelato from Grom. Talk about the holy trinity of food shops! Living near these three would be very dangerous for my waistline.
The first cheese that caught my eye was a creamy, ash covered wedge of Crémeux du Puy.
We brought it back to our apartment that evening, created a tempting cheese plate with it and the three others we had chosen, opened up a bottle of white Burgundy and settled in for a grand tasting.
Sadly, this was our least favorite.
I think it was just too young. The flavor was sharp, and even though there were mild hints of soft, creamy butter, the astringent flavor overpowered them. Also, this cheese is dotted with blue veins that I had hoped would offer some nice, salty or mushroomy pockets of flavor. Nope. Nada.
Even though we found it very disappointing, I would try it again as I think it deserves a second chance. A more mature wedge would probably taste better.
Crémeux du Puy is an unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from Le Puy-en-Velay, in the Haute-Loire.
A light Beaujolais or Chardonnay would be my wine pairing recommendation.
La Fromagerie 31
64, rue de Seine
75006 PARIS
And the icing on the already delicious gâteau that is Paris is the sheer number of Fromageries that seem to appear around every corner.
My sister and I wandered into Fromagerie 31 after a delicious, al fresco lunch at da Rosa's and a cone of amazing Bacio gelato from Grom. Talk about the holy trinity of food shops! Living near these three would be very dangerous for my waistline.
The first cheese that caught my eye was a creamy, ash covered wedge of Crémeux du Puy.
We brought it back to our apartment that evening, created a tempting cheese plate with it and the three others we had chosen, opened up a bottle of white Burgundy and settled in for a grand tasting.
Sadly, this was our least favorite.
I think it was just too young. The flavor was sharp, and even though there were mild hints of soft, creamy butter, the astringent flavor overpowered them. Also, this cheese is dotted with blue veins that I had hoped would offer some nice, salty or mushroomy pockets of flavor. Nope. Nada.
Even though we found it very disappointing, I would try it again as I think it deserves a second chance. A more mature wedge would probably taste better.
Crémeux du Puy is an unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from Le Puy-en-Velay, in the Haute-Loire.
A light Beaujolais or Chardonnay would be my wine pairing recommendation.
La Fromagerie 31
64, rue de Seine
75006 PARIS
June 14, 2009
Photo du Jour - Peles Castle
A glimpse of Peles Castle through the forest. Transylvania far exceeded my expectations in every way.
More on that later...I just want to get back home to France first and I'm sitting at the airport waiting for my flight. Which is late. Which means that I may miss my connection in Amsterdam.
I have a feeling this is going to be a long afternoon.
June 11, 2009
June 9, 2009
Photo du Jour - Gelato
Very much of an Italian feel here in Zagreb.
Gelato is everywhere and it's delicious! Also, the espresso is divine.
June 8, 2009
June 6, 2009
Photos du Jour - Zagreb Markets
Loved the two lively, bustling outdoor markets that we visited in Zagreb this morning. Bought some fruit, pastries and homemade cheese to try.
June 4, 2009
Vidimo se kasnije...
or should I say la Revedere*?
After six glorious days in Paris with my sister I have a couple of days at home before leaving again to meet friends from New Orleans.
You'll never guess where they've invited me to join them this year.
Over the years we've spent time together in some amazing cities: Barcelona, Avignon, Milan, Geneva, Dublin and Lucca, to name a few. And there are so many wonderful European cities left to discover, I was expecting the choice to be spectacular.
So what did they choose? Or should I say, what did one of them choose and the rest of us are following along like good little lemmings?
Zagreb and Bucharest.
And we're even going to go spend a night in Transylvania. Possibly in a castle. (I'm still waiting for husband to tuck some heads of garlic into my suitcase)
I must admit, neither of them would have been my first choice.
Why not Rome or Lisbon? Oslo or Copenhagen? Budapest or Munich? At first I was a bit disappointed, but now I'm really excited. I have absolutely no expectations, and that is a good thing, right? Also, I'm traveling with three of the best people to explore new places with.
So, off to Eastern Europe I go!
*See you later!
After six glorious days in Paris with my sister I have a couple of days at home before leaving again to meet friends from New Orleans.
You'll never guess where they've invited me to join them this year.
Over the years we've spent time together in some amazing cities: Barcelona, Avignon, Milan, Geneva, Dublin and Lucca, to name a few. And there are so many wonderful European cities left to discover, I was expecting the choice to be spectacular.
So what did they choose? Or should I say, what did one of them choose and the rest of us are following along like good little lemmings?
Zagreb and Bucharest.
And we're even going to go spend a night in Transylvania. Possibly in a castle. (I'm still waiting for husband to tuck some heads of garlic into my suitcase)
I must admit, neither of them would have been my first choice.
Why not Rome or Lisbon? Oslo or Copenhagen? Budapest or Munich? At first I was a bit disappointed, but now I'm really excited. I have absolutely no expectations, and that is a good thing, right? Also, I'm traveling with three of the best people to explore new places with.
So, off to Eastern Europe I go!
*See you later!
June 3, 2009
La Fête du Fromage - Le Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées
Voilà Le Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées. Another fabulous, yet very different, fromage de chèvre.
This pressed, natural rind, unpasteurized fermier goat's cheese is nothing like a fresh, crumbly-centered Loire Valley chèvre. Instead, le Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées reminds me of a young Reblochon, somewhat like le Chevrotin des Aravis, only softer and more delicate.
It is produced in the Ariège department in the Pyrénées (as you probably already guessed). It is rich with yeast, nuts and salty flavors. The pâte gently oozes when you cut into it, promising a wonderful cheese. It did not disappoint!
"Enjoy it now," the Fromager said. "Do not refrigerate it and do not let it mature, it is ready to eat this week."
Let it mature???
As I gently placed it into my bag, noting its dense, supple texture through the wax paper, I couldn't wait to get home, tear off a hunk of baguette and slice off a wedge. Not a chance that I was letting this one sit around any longer than necessary.
Le Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées' hefty price tag was worth every luscious mouthful. It didn't take us long to polish it off and how I wish I had bought two instead of just one so we could have savored it all week.
I didn't, and in only two days it was gone.
I need to get some more. Soon.
Light red wines, such as a Mâcon from Burgundy, will compliment this cheese perfectly.
This pressed, natural rind, unpasteurized fermier goat's cheese is nothing like a fresh, crumbly-centered Loire Valley chèvre. Instead, le Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées reminds me of a young Reblochon, somewhat like le Chevrotin des Aravis, only softer and more delicate.
It is produced in the Ariège department in the Pyrénées (as you probably already guessed). It is rich with yeast, nuts and salty flavors. The pâte gently oozes when you cut into it, promising a wonderful cheese. It did not disappoint!
"Enjoy it now," the Fromager said. "Do not refrigerate it and do not let it mature, it is ready to eat this week."
Let it mature???
As I gently placed it into my bag, noting its dense, supple texture through the wax paper, I couldn't wait to get home, tear off a hunk of baguette and slice off a wedge. Not a chance that I was letting this one sit around any longer than necessary.
Le Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées' hefty price tag was worth every luscious mouthful. It didn't take us long to polish it off and how I wish I had bought two instead of just one so we could have savored it all week.
I didn't, and in only two days it was gone.
I need to get some more. Soon.
Light red wines, such as a Mâcon from Burgundy, will compliment this cheese perfectly.
June 2, 2009
Photo du Jour - Quelle Vue!
It doesn't get much better than this.
Putting your feet up while you sip on a refreshing, cool glass of white Burgundy and dive into a fantastic book while the sun sets over Paris on another warm and sunny day.
With that view!
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